It takes more than an honorable soul. It takes a soul with really DEEP pockets and a willingness to wait a long, long time to make their money back....and maybe eventually .....maybe.....make a profit.
That's why someone here needs to find Bill Gates, befriend him and espouse the virtues of our cars to him thus making him a fan. Then, over time, mentioning the small bumper problem and convincing him to fund maybe 500 repops available to members of this site at zero cost. It could work.
Bill Gates didn't get to where he is by foolishly investing (maybe I should say "dumping") money into loser projects. Maverick restoration parts, to SOME extent......are money losers. Want to get Maverick restoration parts made? Want to get ANYTHING made? Then show the invester how he is going to make tons of money and he will haul the money to your house in a Brinks truck.
Bumper tucks Hi Randy: We tucked a couple of Comets years ago and when we did we ommited the metal insert on each bumper , cleaned the bumpers thorougly , painted the "inside" area with black rustoleum paint and reinstalled them by making new brackets. I weighed the metal inserts just out of curiousity and it came to 98 pounds combined weight that WASN'T reinstalled. The cars have since been reworked again to small bumpers and valances but the tuck made the car look less like a park-bench setup. Cometized CAMEO
I was shocked at the weight of the I beam inside the bumper shell. I had planned on moving my mounts back maybe three inches or until the bumper was as close as possible to the grill, then trimming the insert or omitting it altogether. The factory mounting holes have a nut welded in them to accept the bolts, two of those nuts spun on me and I had to grind the bolts off. So I was going to thru bolt the new ones.
Big Bumper Tuck Here are some pictures of my '73 with a 2 1/2 inch tuck and I think it looks great. Lee Richart
Yes, I was also amazed at the amount of weight of the inner bumper - even on the '73. I've seen this car in person and also think it looks great. I may need to do this to my '73. Sad news about the red 75 that I posted at the beginning of this thread. Since I first looked at it in 2008, I have watched it go through 4 owners locally. I lost track of it, but the newest owner ran into us (randomly) when we met at Ryan's steakhouse for dinner a couple of weeks ago. I gave him my contact info. Well, he called me Friday and told me they got t-boned in it last week. Luckily everyone was ok, but the car wasn't. I haven't seen it in person, but he says its beyond fixable. I'm going to look at it soon.
Seatbelt Interlock System...Basically, the starter will not engage unless the driver and other front seat passenger sit in the seat and pull out the seat belt. Unless the driver or passenger has remained seated and buckled, the sequence must be repeated every time the engine is started. Leaving the belts pulled all the way out also will prevent the engine from being started, as the belts must be retracted and buckled each time the engine is started.
Hmm.. Thanks for the info. That would explain all the wires running to the seat rail area. Is it just a matter of unplugging it to disable and remove the box? I mean Kansas state law pretty much takes care of its intended purpose..
From what I understand its hard-wired into the car, dont think theres a way to bypass it...I recall seeing a few topics about this...might try a search for more info?
DELETING INTERLOCK FUNCTION Locate the emergency start override switch (under hood-next to windshield washer jug) and remove the 4-wire terminal connector attached to it. Cut the No. 32 circuit (RED/LT. BLUE) wire and No. 33 circuit (WHITE/PINK DOT) wire as close to the connector as possible. Using a butt connector, splice the two wires together and tape the splice to waterproof it.
