Brake Line Fitting

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by scs, Sep 30, 2014.

  1. scs

    scs Member

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    Can anyone tell me what size fitting this is. It is from an original Maverick Master Cylinder and is not 5/16" nor 3/8" Inverted Flare/Standard Flare/Double Flare. It seems like it must be either 11/32" or metric. In 1971, I doubt this was metric and I doubt anyone made an 11/32" brake line fitting. fitting.jpg
     
  2. Dave B

    Dave B I like Mavericks!

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    Is that the original drum/drum master off your car?
     
  3. scs

    scs Member

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    Yes, that is the original Master Cylinder/fitting and brake line. My real question is: I have a CSRP front disk brake conversion with new master cylinder and a new "getdiskbrakes.com" SS brake line kit. They don't match up. The "getdiskbrakes.com" setup is excellent, but it is like the original for this fitting on the Master Cylinder. The CSRP Master Cylinder has 3/16" female brake line fitting for this location. I cannot find an adaptor anywhere.
     
  4. Dave B

    Dave B I like Mavericks!

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    I've bought some masters , that in the past came with adapters, I might have something, I'd have to dig around. Email CSRP, and maybe they can help?
     
  5. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    Rear nut is 1/2", front 5/8"... Thread size?? I dunno, many aftermarket M/C included adapters as most had smaller ports...

    Same M/C was used on drum brake '68-'71 Fairlane, Torino, etc....

    When I went to a '74 Maverick disc brake M/C I had to cut the front one and use 3/8 nut fitting, no one had a adapter... I did find adapter for rear port...
     
  6. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    they are some kind of bastard fitting and a boy dog to find.
    I went to my hydraulic line shop Guy and he had a pair sitting on the counter that a guy with a Maverick left just minutes before I got there. he was looking for some new ones and left the old ones. 007.JPG
     
  7. scs

    scs Member

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    Nice clean job on the brake lines 71gold!!!! I have invested about $40 in fittings/adaptors and it looks like a rat's nest. But since I do have a new proportioning valve to accept the new front disk brakes, I need a few extra lines. I just may need to cut the new rear SS line and reflare with the new 3/16" line fittings.
     
  8. scs

    scs Member

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    Look at this rat's nest! And I''m still missing two fittings ?!?#$%$#$

    rats nest.jpg
     
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  9. Paul Masson

    Paul Masson MCCI Atlantic Canada Rep

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    The literature I had from when I bought the drum/drum master cylinder for my car a couple of years ago shows the front as 9/16"-18 INV, and the rear as 1/2"-20 INV. I don't recall there being any adapter fittings on mine. The second picture you posted is a disc/drum master, with what looks like drum/drum proportioning valve and drum lines.

    Manual disc/drum shows front 7/16"-24 and rear as 9/16"-18.

    Power disc/drum shows front 3/8"-24 and rear as 7/16"-24.

    I am currently ordering parts for the disc conversion on my 71 and have come to the conclusion that I need to order 76+ disc lines/fittings and proportioning block in order for everything to work and look factory. The front disc hoses also mount in a different spot ahead of the wheel.

    Hope this answers your question???
     
  10. RMiller

    RMiller My name is Rick

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    A good auto parts store should have a selection of adapters but those are getting hard to find. Take a look at Brakequip and see where the closest dealer is to you, they should have a selection of them and should be able to set you up.
     
  11. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    May be a rats nest to you but I like the twist and turns, they allow for flex and vibration and not possibly cracking a line... Without the loop-t-loop, should be using a braided flex line...
     
  12. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    I have no prop. valve or distribution block...
    straight from the M/C to the calipers.
    the larger tires in the rear are my bias.
     
  13. 71Mavrk

    71Mavrk Member

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    I ran into the same issue when I converted mine. I took some pictures of which ends needed to be changed out and where I needed an extra inch of line added. I sent the picture to Right Stuff/GetDiskBreaks along with the instructions. They made me up lines that fit. Give them a call. They didn't ever seem to charge me for it (don't mention that). Looks nice and correct now.

    On your proportioning valve, check the line to the left front, the one with the copper washer. No matter what I do, mine weeps. I think they did not anneal the washer correctly. I'm going to have to pull mine apart again and heat the washer up with a torch to get it soft.

    Micah
     
  14. scs

    scs Member

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    Thanks for the info and it explains why there is always conflicting information. It sounds like you are planning this right. It sure would have paid off as I spent an entire day on it and it's still not right. Also, you noted that I was still using the Drum/Drum proprtioning block. I do have a rear disk proportioning block downstream of the factory block but it's hard to see in the picture. However, it is my understanding the factory drum/drum block does not do any proportioning and is just a distribution block (with a brake failure function switch). That is why I reused it in my setup. If you know differently, then maybe I need to remove it and just use Tees, but that would be more $ and time.....
     
  15. scs

    scs Member

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    Thanks for the heads up on the copper washer. I have an adaptor there and now that you mention it, it seemed to bottom out. Any other tricks on this factory proporting/distribution block? Knowing all this now, I would have just eliminated it and used tees. I don't really need the brake failure light function and it probably does not work anyway.
     

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