as repeated above, steel braided lines will not flex as much as rubber lines. i dont think it will make a significant difference in pedal travel, unless you have a line that bubbles under pressure. that means the inner liner is leaking pressure into the outer liner of the line. if your brakes are properly adjusted and the travel is too much, you can play with sizing of the master cylinder, wheel cylinders, and caliper pistons. to do this first you have to decide if your pedal effort is too light or just right or too much if its just right then leave it alone. if its too much then this will only make it harder. if its too light then thats a sign of having the wrong size master-cylinder for the sizes of the wheel cylinders and caliper pistons. if you put a bigger bore master-cyliner in you will decrease the travel of the pedal or if you put smaller wheel cylinders and caliper pistons in the travel will decrease. the pedal effort will increase at the same time
OK good advice... I removed all the e-brake parts because it was all seized up and broken cables too... As for the rear brakes, I put all new parts including wheel cyl. but I did reuse my old drums... My master is a stock 76 disc/drum with the matching 76 disc front brakes.. Drum/drum prop valve... When I install my 8.8 w/disc brakes I will use a locar center hump e-brake handle with locar cables...
Why the drum to drum prop valve? Might want to consider checking the rear drums tightness and adding an adjustable proportional valve to get the bias right. Or try your luck at the junkyard for a disk/drum combination valve that isn't too gunked up.
Agreed, without a prop valve there is a good likelihood the rears will lock sooner than they should, though I've heard of systems working just fine without one... I don't see lack of the porp valve causing low pedal nor worn drums as long as they are adjusted correctly...
