this is a link to muscle mustang web site that built a stock 302 in to a 400 hp beast for only $1000 buck's http://www.musclemustangfastfords.c...hp_into_a_5_0_l_small_block_engine/index.html
ive got a 302 sitting in my barn waiting to be rebuilt. This helps a lot, though the only things that concern me are the price of machining the engine (which they didnt do) and snagging a bargain on aluminum cylinder heads. I will have to bookmark that page for future reference.
I dont know. It looks like a bunch of made in China stuff to me. That intake looks really cheap. Kind of like the one that was posted on here from China. For some reason I think they arent telling the whole story on assembly.
My opinion is , would you want an engine that was making 400 hp(if indeed it actually did), That consisted of the parts listed ? Usually you get what you pay for when it comes to engine components. "Fast, Cheap, Reliable. You only get two outta the three" Instead ...Why not just spray the crap out of a basically stock motor? It just may out last the one the article is outlining?
Pro-comp heads are the biggest piles of crap you can bolt on your motor. The aluminum they use is the worst grade. The port design and castings are absolutely horrible. The machine work quality is the one thing you can not judge without special tools, so keep in mind your getting a fast production, low quality product that may not last. Luckily for cheap head makers, even poor machine work doesnt show up at first, making a cheap product seem like a good buy. Pro-Topline heads had these same issues. Many of the Pro-Topline heads not to be confused with pro-comp heads, had machine quality issues that never showed up until after they were bolted on motors for 8 to 12 months. Usually the golden rule for cheap heads is to buy them bare, and never use there machine work or parts which include springs, valves, retainers , etc
Yep, real horror stories about Pro Crap heads, valve seats falling out, bad core shift, rocker studs off kilter. The list goes on and on... As Mike mentioned, just spray it. You can buy a kit and a lot of nitrous for $1000.
Junk Parts Hi All, I quote, "As Mike mentioned, just spray it. You can buy a kit and a lot of nitrous for $1000." In my humble opinion, either bad parts or "a lot of nitrous" spell trouble and engine failure. For reference, my Autolite 2100 two barrel carb on my I6 250 cost me around $450.00. It replaced another Autolite 2100 that cost a third as much. Both carbs were just fine, but there was a discernable positive performance difference with the higher priced one. This can be account for by better fuel air distribution to the cylinders. There is more to these things than meets the eye. Why do you think "oulaw" circle track guys are willing to fork out $680.00 for a reworked Holly 500 two barrel? It sure is not because they like to overpay. Regards, David
the intake manifold is one i just bought. ITs a Parker Funnel web made by an Australian company and it was made to compete with the victor series and outflows it. Mine seems to be really solid and not cheaply made. Just my 2 cents
My statement meant that a lot of nitrous can be bought for the amount of money mentioned, it didn't say to spray a large quantity. It can be done if you watch the tune, though. For a lot of years (12 or 13) I ran a 150 shot on a cast-piston 302 without problem using a good nitrous controller.