ok, how about this. i put my car in park and it just kinda rolls back till it catches. what do i need to replace?
It could be a maladjustment of your linkage, a worn sector block at the shift lever, a worn park pawl or spring or that you need to stop completely before putting it in park.
It is time to get a rebuilt unit to swap or plan for having the car down while the transmission is rebuilt. This would be a good time to have the TransGo 40-2 valve body reprogramming kit installed.
This Post ROCKS!! It is so Awesome it is that your sharing this knowledge and replying to everyone too.. But this is why I went with a four speed Manual tranny out of a 1982 F-150 (fully syncronized) Thanks for the info, Phil
Phil, if you are as hard on clutches as I am I hope you think about a well built C4 each time you have to change your clutch. I do not "ride the clutch" but I do shift up and down a lot (even with the automatic) and I rarely get a year out of a decent clutch. I got real good at replacing them but it is never fun. I get more than 7 years from my C4s and never have a problem.
Wow hey thanks Paul for the information U must been reading my mind this morning. I had just bought a car and noticed a couple issues you explained. It was 10 degrees warmer here today and I had to do some erands around town,morning sickness wasnt as bad as I went to Napa to get fluid (in case I need some in the future)type FA is what they had. Car shifted real smooth as I babied it for about 15 minutes around town then I took off and it worked ok. Reverse it shifts hard into, ujoints are good, idle is slow.There is also alot of slop in shifter on column afraid to leave it running in park without being in it. When weather warms up I will check linkage and grommits. OK now the more important stuff like dome light,plastic for window cranks,passenger mirror and gas cap.
adjust the bands and see if that helps with the clunk into reverse. The rear band is: Loosen lock nut (3/4" hex) and hold it while you torque the rear band adjuster (5/16 square) to 10 foot pounds. Then back the adjuster out 2 1/2 turns and hold it while you tighten the lock nut. The front band adjustment is : Loosen lock nut and hold it while you torque the adjuster to 10 foot pounds. Back it out 1 1/2 turns and hold it while you tighten the lock nut. NOTE: those lock nuts have a seal on them so don't back them out any more than you have to, to get the adjuster to turn or you will have to replace them for leakage.
Just wanted to let you know... I LOVE shifting gears being a truck driver & all. Also I know how to put a clutch in... I don't know how to rebuild an automatic tranny. So far the only issue I have had was breaking the oil pump rod.... The kid was driving that day, but he swears it wasn't him...It was me abusing it by reving her up and dumping the clutch... that is undecided! I think he was rapping her to much... he says it was me... Phil
Phil, That oil pump drive shaft usually breaks when the umbrella seals get hard and break up and then go through the pump - I've had it happen to me too.
I had real good luck with a Ford clutch. Here is a pic of the last one I replaced after 20 years service. Here is an Auto Zone clutch a few months old.
I have a freshly built C4 with a performance shift kit. It won't shift into 3rd. It has reverse, but has never shifted into third. I have proper travel and spring tension on the kickdown lever. The vacuum line has no oil in it and the mod. is new. You mention on a previous reply to check the governor.....what should I look for? Dirt? Broken pieces? I don't know these very well, just wondering if there is anything else to look for. A local tranny guy said to jack it up and run it in reverse for 5 minutes to flush out anything that might jam up the governor, but it didn't work.The car I bought is from L.A., I had it shipped here, and once I got it running and driving, I realized the problem. The drivetrain is new, never driven, but now I can't go back to the builder because they are 1000's of miles away. Any ideas? Thanks.
If you have all gears but third then there is a problem in the seals of the direct drum, sticky valve body, 2-3 shift valve, or governor. If you can take it for a drive and start in manual low, shift to second about 15 mph and then into 3rd at 30 and see if it shifts that way. Then using drive use moderate throttle and see where it shifts into 2nd and then 3rd. If it won't shift into third then take it someplace where you can get your speed up to about 75 and see if it shifts at 75 or before. It might be that the vacuum modulator pin is jammed into the valve and not letting it move with the vacuum. Try pulling the modulator and re-installing it making sure to get the pin in place in the hole in the valve - that valve might be in backwards. Those are my thoughts off the top of my head. I hope it helps.
