Long delay going into first gear Paul I hope you can help. My 72 V8 maverick has a C4 that is slow to go into first gear. I have had the vehicle 2 years and trans worked well. This summer it started a long delay going into first gear from park. Usually only after the trans warms up. The first shift of the day feels ok, but once its hot, the neutral to Drive or 1rst delay is 3-10 seconds. My friend told me about aerated fluic, and the fluid level was too high, I removed about 1/2 quart, same problem. Note- There is no kickdown cable from the carb, only the vacuum hose and B&M slap shifter connection. Can the lack of the kickdown cable kill first gear? or is the throttle pressure not enough to overcome governer pressure causing the delay? Previous owner must have installed a shift kit because the 1-2 shift is great, so I don't know what was done to the first gear apply. Getting ready to pull it out and try my hand at a rebuild. Thanks for the help Sean in NJ
It sounds like a worn or soft seal in the forward clutch. That is the only active member in low gear. Does it go into reverse well? Reverse uses the direct clutch and rear band. If your C4 does the same thing in manual low then it is the forward clutch. You fluid should be between the ADD and FULL marks on the dipstick with the engine idling and the transmission in Park. You should only use type "F" fluid in the C4.
C4 possible issues Hello Paul, Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with us. I have some questions for you. I just got done swapping a 351W, I used the same C4 that was on the 302. I've only replaced the filter and the gasket on the tranny and I installed a 3000 stall converter (from edgeracing). Here are my issues. 1. The tranny will not go into first gear nor 2nd, 1st works for a little bit. 2. I don't have the vaccum hose connected from the carb yet. 3. I've added Type F fluid but I overfilled it, which I can resolve easily. 4. When I installed the converter, i only put a little bit of type F fluid in it, don't think it was enough since i put about 6 quarts after everything was installed and the car was idling in Park. Dipstick showed between the lines of Full and Do not add. I've only ran the car 3 times around the block, and the tranny shifted fine, until I tried to do a little burn out , the tranny felt like it disengaged and it wouldn't go after that. Reverse still works. I don't know the history behind this tranny, however i'm debating on just buying one or dealing with all these issues??? Help please. Thanks again
71Mavk, You need to be more clear on your problem. You said it din't go into first or second and then you said 1st worked for a little while. Then you say you took it around the block and it worked fine until you tried to do a burn out. Can you be a little clearer as to what happened when? What are the symptoms now? Start by rechecking the fluid level while the engine is idling in Park. Get the level right first. Then tell me what works and what doesn't and whether you are in a manual gear (man 1st -2nd) or in Drive.
My apologies, the tranny was fine when I installed it. I drove the car around the block 3 or 4 times and it shifted fine, I drove it up to 50 mph. Not until I tried to do a little burn out, that's when it went. The tranny would not go in drive nor in 2nd. 1st worked but only went 10 miles an hour. I checked the fluid and it was overfilled maybe about a 1/4 inch over the Do not add mark on the dipstick. Since I don't the history of this tranny, I don't know if I should rebuild it or just deal with this, it maybe something simple. Thanks
Does first gear work in Drive? Is this an auto shift valve body or a manual shift valve body? If you don't know what you have it is best to start from scratch with a new transmission that you know is built with the parts to handle your application. What part of the world are you in?
Wont move in first Ok I took the car out on the highway for the first time and the car got very hot and was stagged up for a good while. I made a 1/4 mile blast went to make a u turn and it wouldnt go in first. I had to use second. The next day I took it out and made a u turn again and it didnt go in first. Get back home and went from P-R-N-1 10 times and worked fine. The car has slowed down in the 60 ft by .2. So I pulled the trans and converter guy removed the sprag its now spragless. That was a problem. While he was fixxing the converter I went threw the trans and put in back together everything looked fine. I get it back in the car today and the thing wont go in first. I here it shift out of neutral into first but its binding I quess and wheels wont turn. All other gears are work fine. The trans was completely rebuilt 20 passes ago ago and less than 50 miles. Your help would be greatly appreciated. The trans is a reverse manual valve body. I am sure it is an internal problem. The linkage, lines and shifter are all hooked up correctly and has correct amount of fluid.
I don't understand what "stagged up" is. I have never heard that term. Converters don't work without a sprag - that would either let the stator turn freely or it would be locked solid - neither of these would cause no low or a low gear lock-up but they would cause low power or engine run away. If this valve body has a trans brake then I would say the trans brake is faulty. If it doesn't have a trans brake then there may be a problem with the valve body. It would have to be bleeding to multiple circuits - holding the transmission in two or more gears when it is put in low. TCI has had some problems (which they won't admit to) like this with their valve bodies. If you have another valve body try it to see if the problem clears up. (even if it is a stock valve body) This is why I recommend Broader Performance, Jay doesn't have problems like this and if he ever did he would fix it.
you stage up before the tree goes green. so the car was up on the stall generating heat for a lengthy period of time . it is a drag car. yes there are spragless converters, this stater is locked to the gear. two things that came to mind was the trans brake and the valve body how would i check either of these?
To check the trans brake you will have to contact the manufacturer - they know how it is supposed to work and should be able to diagnos it. The valve body can be checked on a function tester - like a valve body dyno. You could also test the trans brake operation on one too. Other than that you would have to disassemble the valve body, check the valve, channel casting, and separator plate for flatness (on a lapping table) and alignment. Follow that with making sure all the valve spools slide in their bores under their own weight. Then reassemble making sure not to warp it by over or uneven torque to the fasteners. Does that help?
Yes. Thanks for the help. I will find a trans shop to test it tomorrow, and i will update you on the outcome.
Shifting problem I can manually shift the car but when in automatic "D" the car won't shift beyond 1st gear. Am I missing a vacuum or not have it hooked up right?? Please help. Thanks
Cometvirgin, Unless the transmission has a manual valve body (some 1970 C4s came that way from the factory) then it should shift when put in drive. If it goes into third when you shift it to Drive (below 50) then you have a manual valve body. If you have a vacuum modulator then it should be connected to a good manifold vacuum source, run through a 1/4" (minimum) steel tube and connect to the modulator with a short piece of hose.
No, the car won't even move in drive. I don't know if it's an auto or a manual shift body, this is my first time dealing with Mavericks and V8 engines. All I know its the original tranny C4 automatic that came with a 302. I'm in New Mexico. I was thinking about buying a tranny from Broader performance just to be save and not worry about this. Thanks for your help.
