Someone recommended this place before so I bookmarked it. http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=2&Category_Code=C-4
I get mine from TPI(transmission parts inc) in Little Rock. Most trans shops have them but may charge a little more. A full kit with steels and disc's, runs around 45.00 here. The modulator and bands are extra(referred to as "hard parts" with core's. Depending on condition of internal's such as drums and gears, etc. A 100.00 bill should cover it easily. If you are going to do the job yourself(I hope) you may need some selective size thrust washer's and such. Just for info, there is a bit more to the shift kit than removing one ball, not at all hard to do without even buying a kit, But that is with some experience in doing them, drill out a hole in the seperator plate, remove a ball, reverse a spring and valve and remove a spring and block the valve with a 1/4in ball. That is all there is to it, first time rebuilders should buy a kit and read the instructions etc, until they understand the procedure. Drilling drums and adding extra clutches should be done too. don't want to confuse you but just giving a picture of how I do them. If a shop is doing it, ask them about doing these mod's for you. Some may not have the foggiest on how???
C4 Rebuild Forgot to mention just in case some other's are doing a rebuild too, one thing that is very important in the procedure, is to soak the fibre clutch disc's in good grade, "clean" type F fluid, for at least 30 minutes or more. Also, (this may start an argument), I also use a piece of window glass and lay some 180 grit oxide cloth on it. Then take each steel clutch plate and scuff up both sides evenly. Helps the clutch's grab better and does not seem to cause any excessive wear in my experience. Course a rebuild shop may or may not do this or say it is not necessary. That's what makes us all a bit different from each other, in this world.
Dave, I always appreciate your posts! I did not mean to offend by the "ball" comment. I installed a BM kit a long time ago. Loved the change! Just seeing some leaks here and there slipping a bit on 2-3. Tranny has over 75k miles and found a local builder who will barter some Ford parts with me. Just looking for a good rebuild set up. I will look into the TCI and TPI. Thanks Scott
No offense takin, just so used to the younger guys at the track telling me they took a ball out of VB and nothing else. "Still don't shift hard" You seem to be pretty knowledgable on this stuff. Sometimes I get carried away and ramble on, old age wil get the blame, plus being a bit deranged in the crainial area.
What do you think of the Borg-Warner kits? The one I have for the C-4 I'm building has the friction material "glued" to the steel plates. Is this a good kit? Or should I sh!tcan it and get something better? Plus, what's a good price for a 2nd gear band?
Nothing wrong with the borg warner clutches they are up there with the raybestos products.....I think we give less than 10 bucks for the flex band but we buy alot of parts....but that should give you an idea kevlar is higher.....but once again not always needed.....also Dave just curios I have seen you mention the R servo on the C-4 I have always used the H on the c-4 and the R on c-6....the R's on a c-4 are super small in the applie bore. Just curious Robert
To semi answer for Dave... The R's make it shift harder, but the H's apply more pressure in the C4's. I've ran a R w/ a shift kit that Dave made and it shifted GREAT In my racecar, Im putting a H in it and one of the shiftkits he does. Should be best of both worlds... Shift good and hold good pressure.
Hey Robert, yes the apply bore on the R, is .140 smaller than the H but the whole deal on using either one is to release the band quicker for 2 to 3 and not so much on the apply force on it for 1 to 2. The H has a 3.785 release bore and the R is 3.265, the smaller release area fills faster and gets fluid to the clutches faster, which should engage them quickly and harder. All depends on how tight the clutch packs are set up and other critical clearances. You can also modify the R to put more apply pressure on the band, by removing the O-ring and grinding sme slots on the piston. Then plug the hole in the case. Not my bag because of some band breakage occurring with high pressures. Got a couple Q's for you, just for my own curiosity. Have you ever used the 351 Cleveland valve spring on the servo? Read about it but have never tried it. Also was wondering how the C4 servo fits the C6, seems the bolt pattern is not the same or am I missing something? Am not a professional trans guy, learned a bunch from guys like you and the books. First auto ever I tried to build was a 63 Olds "Slim Jim" hydromatic. Book from library and laid out on the floor piece by piece, worked ok for some reason, very intimidating tranny with lots of parts compared to the c4 and 6. Don't do much any more except for the race cars and a few fellow racers. Getting old and lazy, besides it's messy and then I have to clean up everything.
Dave, do you have an H servo laying around? I have an R here, and I need to put it or an H in that tranny I have at your house. Just curious. Looking for some parts before i throw the comet back together
