Cam recommendations

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by rag9836, Jun 17, 2016.

  1. rag9836

    rag9836 1972 Comet, 67K

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    Just finished the control valve and ram cylinder re-build and steering is much better...

    I have a 600 CFM edelbrock carb and performer intake that I am going to install... I've never done an intake install before... But since I have it off, I am thinking of upgrading cam.

    Looking for recommendations for one to be run on a stock 302, with only an upgraded carb and intake.

    After this I'll do headers and exhaust and call it done.

    Thanks for the advice.
     
  2. groberts101

    groberts101 Member

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    oh fun.. another cam rec thread. lol Just keep in mind that this kind of stuff can snowball out of your price range and skill level pretty quickly so let us know what those are right up front to help keep the rec's relevant to what you're after here. Otherwise before you know it we'll be telling you to dump the stock heads.. stroke the motor to a 347 and install some AFR 195's. ;)

    I like this Comp Cams Extreme Energy cam because it has faster valve action and tighter 110° lobe separation angle with an added exhaust split(more duration/lift) to help these anemic factory exhaust ports. Smallest one they make(250° advertised duration) and the shorter duration is right in line with a milder, smaller CID, low compression motor. Don't underestimate this smaller cams ability though.. because it WILL make more power EVERYWHERE in the rev range and still extend your rpm potential for when you're feeling a bit rowdy with the gas pedal. BUT.. this cam.. as with any mild performance cam.. will tax the other parts more and can even push a nominally healthy motor over the edge to greater oil consumption and compression blowby.. so it pays to understand and plan accordingly.

    http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=875&sb=2

    What's the overall condition of the engine.. mileage.. and heads rebuilt at any time?
    If this motor has never been freshened up? figure on replacing...

    ~cam/lifters
    ~timing chain
    ~valve springs(to handle the higher lifts and faster valve open/close action)
    ~valve stem guide liners(or at least valve stem seals.. preferably much better and longer lasting positive style that must have existing guides machined to accept them
    ~top end/timing set gaskets
    ~and fresh 3 - 5 angle valve job would be good to take advantage of any added performance any of your other parts will allow.

    Also be damned sure to keep the header size smaller on this motor or you will hurt the efficiency and low rpm torque output. Preferably 1.5" primaries and 2.5" collectors at the most. And go no larger than a 2.25" dual pipe sizing for the exhaust system. And don't forget the H-pipe either.. every little bit helps. Longer tube headers will potentially make more torque but it may be tough to find a 1.5" primary set as most are sized at 1.625" even when they have the much needed smaller 2.5" collector sizing. Hedman makes a shorty style.. #88400 IIRC.. that have smaller primary/collector sizing to keep this little motor more responsive where you'll be driving it most with a smaller cam and stock heads. Hope this helps more than it hurts.
     
  3. rag9836

    rag9836 1972 Comet, 67K

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    Thanks for the response. The engine had 65k original miles on it. It's never been 'refreshed'. It's all completely stock.

    Looking to replace cam and lifters, but not springs or heads.

    After carb, intake, cam, lifters... I'll do headers and exhaust.

    Trying to stay within the 1K range for cam, headers and exhaust.

    Again, I am totally new at this and learning as I go.
     
  4. Static

    Static Member

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    You will want to do springs with a cam change. Youll have changed everything else. The cam profile will be more lift than stock. It will have better control keeping the valves closed and you dont want to run into spring bind
     
  5. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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  6. groberts101

    groberts101 Member

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    these guys are right.. you are already adding components to help make more power and extend the rpm range.. but the worn out and already weak to begin with factory springs will hold you back. The cam that I linked above.. and also the Lunati Tom mentioned(just as good as the Comp Cam if the price is comparable).. have faster opening/closing valve speeds and considerably more lift.. so stock springs won't work. You can do the springs with the heads installed on the engine but it gets trickier to do and adds more variables.

    Tried to elude to it in my above response.. but I will flat out tell you right up front that it's very well known that Fords umbrella seals are complete and utter crap.. so ideally you'll want the springs off and out of the way to replace them anyways. Valve guides are likely on their way out too but I know you don;t want to hear that either so I won't elaborate. The cheap rebuilder specials included with cheapo gasket sets are short lived.. maybe 30-40k miles.. so just be sure to get premium umbrella seals made of higher temp elastomer or Viton.

    If you only have 1,000 to work with and have to have this exhaust system done professionally?.. it would make more sense to stick with you're original plan and leave the cam alone. Like I already said.. nothing is simple and this hotrodding stuff snowballs VERY quickly. To me it makes absolutely no sense to put a performance cam into an engine without the supporting parts to get the full benefit and make it work correctly.. not to mention help the motor last with the added cylinder pressure that results from a more powerful engine. Would be better to revisit this type of modification later on when the budget is there to do it right the first time.
     
  7. rag9836

    rag9836 1972 Comet, 67K

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    Appreciate all the feedback guys, like I said earlier, I am new to this but I do want to do it right.

    I think I'll do the cam, springs, lifters...and sabe the headers and exhaust for later.
     
  8. rotorr22

    rotorr22 Member

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    If the seals are still there, they might crumble in your fingers, pure chit.
     
  9. rag9836

    rag9836 1972 Comet, 67K

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    Later meaning when I finish the above...
     
  10. groberts101

    groberts101 Member

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    Yep.. usually find broken pieces in the head and oil pan. I think the age is probably worse than the mileage.

    I think you will get more from the exhaust work than the cam swap onto a stock manifold single exhaust setup. But either way you go.. one paves the way for more power gain whenever the other gets done. And don't forget to replace the timing chain when you're in there too.
     
  11. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    and a 3:55 rear gear to wake it all up...:drive:...:chirp:
     
  12. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    Back in the day, that's about milage the valve stem seals began to fail, by 75K most were just pieces... I've replaced probably two dozen sets with heads on engine...

    My supposedly 66K 302 had already gotten a set of heads(stock '78) and timing chain replacement... The milage appeared accurate but motor was tired...
     
  13. rag9836

    rag9836 1972 Comet, 67K

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    Cam ordered from the local speed shop
     

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  14. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    To get the most from it you'll need a higher stall torque converter and gear change with that cam... The ones we suggested will work with stock converter and gear...
     
  15. groberts101

    groberts101 Member

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    1 step up from the cam I recommended above.. not a huge deal but on a low compression motor.. manifold vacuum/cylinder pressure.. which equates to off idle torque will be down a tad more. Running that cam would have me buying aN adjustable timing set to enable dialing in an extra 4 degrees of advance to get cylinder pressure back up on a low compression motor like this.

    Shouldn't be too soggy but would probably be best to start thinking about a gear swap like like Frank mentioned above to help come up on the cam quicker. At least a 3.25.. or preferably 3.55 if you want to jump harder from a standstill with those other parts and won't need to worry about longer trips at slightly higher cruising rpm.

    lol.. Tom treed me again.
     

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