Cam recommendations

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by rag9836, Jun 17, 2016.

  1. Hotrock

    Hotrock Rick, an MCCI Member Supporting Member

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  2. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    Rarely if ever did Ford use gaskets on exhaust manifolds, machine work was good enough to seal without one... If you put one back together without gasket they almost always leak...
     
  3. Hotrock

    Hotrock Rick, an MCCI Member Supporting Member

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    I was of the assumption the question was whether or not to have a gasket for the newly installed headers. My mistake!
     
  4. rag9836

    rag9836 1972 Comet, 67K

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    Yeah, I used a gasket with the new headers, I was just thinking there would be one to remove.

    Thanks guys.
     
  5. rag9836

    rag9836 1972 Comet, 67K

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    Re-reading the instructions for the Edelbrock intake manifold install... It says Fords have dowels in the valley that must be removed. I didn't come across any. Am I missing something?

    Almost finished
     
  6. Hotrock

    Hotrock Rick, an MCCI Member Supporting Member

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    I'm of the belief what you read on the Edelbrock instruction sheet is general purpose information. The Ford 302 application does not have dowel pins.
     
  7. rag9836

    rag9836 1972 Comet, 67K

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    Thanks. First time doing this. Thought I missed something.
     
  8. Crazy Larry

    Crazy Larry Member

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    I've never seen any.
     
  9. rag9836

    rag9836 1972 Comet, 67K

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    Was sick the past week and didn't get much done.

    Put the driver side header in today. I had to lift the engine a few inches to clear the steering linkage. Now It does not look like it's going to mount correctly without hitting the linkage.

    Has anyone installed Doug's D668 long tube headers with a 302 and column shifter?

    I am sure something is going to have to be bent or dented... Ugh. Photos from anyone who has put in the Dougs long tubes would be great.

    Thanks
     
  10. rag9836

    rag9836 1972 Comet, 67K

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    Looks like they don't fit with column shifter.... Returning them on Monday.

    That was fun.
     
  11. stumanchu

    stumanchu Stuart

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    I have hooker long tube headers only because the car came with them installed....well, sort of. I didnt have a steering ram issue until I put a transmission in the car, which put the engine into its proper place that conflicts with the PS ram. I have not started to wrestle with the shift linkage yet, But will try to fab something when I get there. I also will fabricate a drop bracket. I have seen pictures of them around here somewhere. My car is a toy, not transportation, so I can learn as I go without hardship. BUT, there is a price to pay to have headers in these cars I think.
     
  12. rag9836

    rag9836 1972 Comet, 67K

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    Okay, just about a year since I started this... and the snowball continues... you guys warned me.

    Here's what I was able to accomplish:
    * 600 cfm edelbrock carb - easy
    * Edelbrock performer intake - easy
    * Petronix distributor - learned you need to ground to coil not distrib bolt like inst say.
    * Petronix coil - stupid ignition wire, had to use a power relay to get things going. Took forever to figure out.
    * Champion 3 core radiator - easy, had to drill new mounting holes for petcock vale to clear
    * Powermaster Alt - easy
    * Doug Thorley Headers - ugh..had to return the Dougs, they don't fit with column shifter. Learned after pass install.
    * QTP Cutouts - exhaust shop
    * Dual exhaust - took them a week but it cleared the pitman arm, J bend on a J bend coming out of collector.
    * Flow Master 50 Delta Series

    Now...I have a rear main seal leak. Pulling out engine and doing a few more upgrades while I am at it.

    Thinking:
    2000 Stahl
    Estreet Edelbrock heads
    Lunati Rocker Rollers
    Comp Cams Extreme Energy CL31-238-2

    What do you guys think of this setup? I just drive the car around town on weekends etc...so not looking for crazy HP, maybe 300-350? Do you think this will get me there?
     
  13. stumanchu

    stumanchu Stuart

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    Is that engine the original? I wouldnt spend a lot of money upgrading it only to have something else in the bottom end fail. If you just want to milk more life out of it, put a new timing chain on it and call it good. What rear end gears do you have? if they are 2.79 or 3.00, I am not sure that a 2000 stall converter will do anything for you, but I have never tried it. My 302 has iron heads and a mystery cam....it came in the car and seems to have more grunt than I would have guessed; rather than more motor, I put in a 3.25 posi to get rid of the 2.79. I still have the stock converter and stock rockers. Right now, just getting the brakes and suspension to handle whatever horsepower that is currently there is my priority. Its no fun to have a car that doesnt steer properly, or lurches to the left when letting off after hard acceleration. My next project is replacing all my leaf spring and shackle bushings. I know I havent answered your question really, but being the guy that has to make every nickel count, buying upgrades for a marginal motor would not be in my budget.
     
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  14. groberts101

    groberts101 Member

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    ^^^^^ I agree with Stuart. I've blown the rings out of marginally sealed engines by pushing cylinder pressure too far beyond their capabilities with hi-po inductions and exhausts. Also blew a great big hole in one of my sisters Buick 3.8 piston once. Supertuned the bejesus out of it till it started to lay rubber from a standstill on pavement. It was awesome!.. till it went.. poppp!!!.. blubber blubber blubber. Turns out the engine was so poorly maintained by the previous owner that the pistons crown(several actually) had eroded away so severely from previous overheating and detonation that it was paper thin. Had I left it alone and done the basic tuneup, probably would lasted for quite some time.

    Point is.. if it's worth all that time and money investment?.. do it right the first time as it will be much cheaper and less stressful over the long run.

    But to answer your question.. yes, you can meet those power levels with those parts. Wouldn't be looking at anything less than about a 2,400 rpm stall speed on that combo. Also keep in mind that a low torque 302 will rarely if ever meet the expected and advertised stall speed. They get tested and rated around midsized 350'ish inch motors making much more torque than yours. So, ask for 2,800 and you might get 2,400 when mated behind a 302.
     
  15. rag9836

    rag9836 1972 Comet, 67K

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    Thanks guys. Yes it's the original engine. My dad bought the car new in 72...used it as his work car. Has 62K miles on it.

    I got it running a few years back (it had been stored outside in CA) and have been doing upgrades here and there since. I just ordered a new Borgenson Pump and have a new control valve and ram cylinder that I am putting in...so the steering should be good. I upgraded the front drums to disc.

    All of that said, since I am pulling the motor for to fix the main seal leak I figured why not do the heads and cam at the same time. The upgrades are addicting.

    With this being the original engine, what would I need to rebuild to 'do it right'? I want to do this the right way.

    Thanks for all of your guys recommendations. Everyone on the forum has been a huge help through the years as this is literally my first project car.
     

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