Sheesh, ,the deck lid on my stallion was waaaaaaaaaaay worse than that when it arrived at my door. I hammered and dollied it, with no bondo done to it at all. That is most certainly fixable. Yes, the thoughts of after damage on the upper flatter skin is a good point, but if you dont see it, it aint there. Dan
Tom makes a great point, yeah, I have been guilty of using what I have to get to what I think I have wanted. But the proper tools do make for a better end result. I have learned this the hard way. Correct tools make for better repairs. Dan
no arguement there. Thanks, this is really my first attempt at dent removal that doesnt involve a wad of bondo iam thinking of cutting more off the back so I can get to the roll. I cant get anything flush with it as is, I'll try a correct body hammer to the outside to get it right first.
Harbor freight sells a kit with 3 hammers and 4 different dollies (all different shapes for different projects) in a carrying case for $20 or $30. If you don't have one near you, you could order online. Not very high quality hammers, but should work well if you aren't doing this for a living. I have had no problem with my set yet... the wooden hammer and dolly out of the box was my original set.
is bondo really the only filler out there? there's no way i'll ever get this 100% perfect and iam sure i'll need some filler. what does surface prep involve with bondo? Bare metal or should I apply it over some type of primer?
Is it best to sand to bare metal or can you use a paint remover to get the paint and old bondo spots up?
do a search at the top for ...lab metal...there is a link there that will tell you all about it. i have some and it seems to be good stuff. i ordered mine local. ...frank...
so this where iam at now. since I took the pic I finished sanding down that whole corner, It looks better in person. I couldnt seem to find and bondo hardner to go with my left over bondo around the house so I'll have to pick some up later.
i would put some primer on and "block" sand it to make sure you don't have any "high" spots . if the low places are not more than 1/16 inch deep you can use "glazing puddy" to fill them...frank...
I am going through similar work with my car, and am learning alot from this thread. I found that I can get Lab-Metal locally for about $1 per ounce, might use it to fill in the spatter-spots where I weld up holes, unless I figure out a cleaner way to weld them up without spatter (thinking of rigging up argon to my welder...).