i used a new piece of rubber fuel line between the fuel filter and the hard line. It is slightly longer than the old one and makes the hard line closer to the engine... could this all be a vapor lock issue? (been reading some older posts on boiling fuel) it is a mechanical fuel pump.
Vapor lock is possible.I feel you have a gross vacuum leak somewhere or a passage in the carb is blocked with crud.Are you certain the choke isnt sticking shut once the engine is warmed up???Does the choke work at all???You get no change from the engine when you play with the mixture screws and the curb idle screw does nothing to change the engines idle??? Gotta be a vacuum leak or a carb malfunction.Your getting fuel...The car runs.It is possible you kinked a fuel line changing the tank.If the pump gets ahead of what the fuel line can send it...The engine will lean out and die as the fuel level in the carb drops due to lack of fuel delivery capacity from a kinked line/hose.Put more gas in the tank as well.A funky fuel pick up will cause starvation problems.Good luck man!!!
word. I adjusted the fuel line away from the engine more and it's still bubbling in the carb but the line isn't getting hot, so I think vapor lock is out of the question. I agree on the vacuum possibility. I was under the impression that the choke doesn't serve a purpose once the car is started and wouldn't cause this sort of problem. do I have the wrong idea about what a choke does (highly likely)? I'll check the lines and hose near the tank, but there wasn't much movement of those during the tank install. I'll definitely check tho. Got a best way to check for vacuum leaks? I'm gonna search for forum some for methods. Thanks again. Gotta get this on the road, registration is running out on my other daily driver n I don't wanna renew.
The choke keeps the mixture rich when cold so the engine will run till it warms up.Once warm the choke isnt necessary.As for the vacuum leak checking...I preferr to use water...Its not flammable around leaky plug wires like starting fluid is.Spray it from a squirt bottle around the carb base, any vacuum connections/lines and around the base of the EGR valve If you have one The engine will stumble/hiccup if it gets sucked in where it shouldnt. A bad EGR valve or EGR gasket can cause all sorts of driveability problems.Fuel bubbling in the carb while running??? May have a fuel pump sucking air and airating the fuel.This will cause a few running/drivability problems also.Good luck...
yea, I've always had the problem of having to give it gas until it warms up. Could the choke effect the operation of the car once it warms up? (crap, u might have answered that already but I can't see the thread anymore). I'm gonna check the vacuum leaks in a few hours. I haven't heard the boiling sound when it's running... but the engine is loud. I've just heard it after it stalls out. Gonna try running the rubber fuel line that leads to my pump straight from a gas can to rule out the sender unit, tank and lines as being a problem. I'll check this again before I try it. Might be dumb, but I'm trying lol. Thanks again.
If you have fuel boiling in your carb when the engine has stopped you have heat issues. The cure is to put a phenolic (plastic or fiber) spacer between the carb and the intake. This is not normally a problem while driving or idling but you may have other issues. The ones that stick out in my mind is high float level, blown power valve, debris in the fuel (holding the needle off its seat) or fuel bleeding through the accelerator pump. The hard start and no cold idle is probably the choke. It must be adjusted to close when cold and open as the engine warms up. The adjustment procedure should be in the instructions that came with the rebuild kit - follow them to get things close, then adjust as necessary.
k. Maverick is on the road!!!!!!~!!~!!!!!@$*@*@)!!! Idk what did it. I tried running the car off a mason jar of fuel leading directly to rule out the gas tank, lines and sender unit but still had an idle problem. I put some permatex around the outside of the cap for my erg (i think that's what it's called) port and the vacuum line that runs to the top of the valve cover. I sliced the end of the line that runs to the valve cover so it would fresh n tight too. I removed the fuel filter on the end of my sender unit and replaced it with just rubber fuel line. The car idled find after all of that. I guess it was a vacuum issue... but not sure. It didn't fail the test of spraying carb cleaner on the vacuum lines and ports, but it also didn't idle off the mason jar. Who knows. It works great now!. Thanks guys!! I still have a problem of stalling out if I give it to much gas from the start but I think advancing my timing alil should take care of that. That's for another search I guess. Thanks again. This is the first time I can feel confident driving it around without breaking down. Gonna try a 4 hour drive this weekend as a test. Thanks guys@!!
Glad its running!!! Was probably the fuel filter you eliminated... Now adjust the accelerator pump so it wont fall on its face when you step on the peadal. Enjoy!!!
yea... The fuel filter got cleaned out with carb cleaner when I replaced the tank and looked open. Don't know why it didn't run off the mason jar of gas if that was the case. Still confused but glad it's running. Put the grill on today and cleaned the carpet. Accelerator pump will take care of that problem? I'm glad u told me before I started playing with the timing without a light lol. Thnx again. I'll post pics on here once I get a charger for my camera.
Progress is allways a good thing. Dont rule out ignition timeing for the hesitation. Just be certain the carb is right before you go messing with the timeing.
