So, you feel it was the factory low-tension rings? I've had several 5.0s but every one has had aftermarket pistons and rings.
that's what I've been told.. but I can say that over the past 15 years I've had, owned, or have had experience in the family or immediate friends over a dozen fox's, and the magic # seems to be over 100k when they start burning through oil. Of course there will be some that don't, but in my experience, nearly every high mile 5.0 loses oil. It's never visible though, and the motors still have high compression, and last well over 200k, so my best educated guess is that I it is the factory oil rings...my father and brother and I all joke about it...we call it the Ford unlimited mile no oil change...just add a quart when the light comes on every 1k miles or so, and it continually refreshes itself... My wife and I owned a 2001 jetta 2.0 once, and with 40k miles on the clock it too burned through oil every 1000 miles or less. We took it to the dealer complaining about this. *(never visible though, and never smell anything)...they said that it's normal to burn through oil ever 1000k on those engines. I commented that that seems excessive, and that it doesn't make sense to burn through 5 quarts of oil in a 5 quart oil pan, in 5000 miles when it has a 5000 mile oil change interval. I told them, so it's normal to replace all 5 quarts of oil in between oil changes...they didn't have an answer for me. I once read an interesting service bulletin too from ford regarding their 2.3L engines, and it was even lower...calling "normal" oil consumption for those engines at 700 miles for one quart!
efi all the way any day. one simple reason.. ACCURACY! Jeremy, i have a buddie who worked for volks and he said it wasnt uncommon to see jettas and such come in at the 5k mark with only 2 qts left in the pan. their warranty claims its permissable, meaning they expect u to check your oil daily!
lol, yea it blew me away...what's funny is it was the n/a engine too.. Our next car was also a jetta (the wife was on a jetta phase) but that time around I convinced her we needed the turbo'd jetta. different engine, 1.8 I think....That little booger would go the entire 5k plus and never burn a drop of oil.
If you're having all these issues with a carb, you're doing something wrong. The trick to EFI like performance with a carb is to use an EFI cam (wide LSA), a good electronic ignition system (Ford's Duraspark or any of the points replacement modules, with the exception of the Pertronix I) A hot coil, and a carb that's sized on the small side of what's recommended. The mild roller 302 in my 89 Ranger runs and drives exactly like it's got EFI. This is an Explorer equivalent long block (including the Explorer cam) but topped with home ported E7's, Cobra 1.7 roller rockers, topped with a Ford A321 intake and a box stock Holley 570 Street Avenger. There's no choke on this carb (first thing I removed from it) and it starts and idles in down to 20*F with only a single pump shot to prime it with the gas pedal. It runs great in all weather with no adjustments. Also helps to advance the initial timing to about 14* BTDC. Ignition is a Crane XR-1 in a rebuilt points distributor topped with the large post type cap and Ford Racing 9MM wires plugged into Autolite plugs. My Comet's 331 is only slightly more tempermental with cold starts with a Duraspark, a Z 303 cam and the triple duece carbs.
i have gt40y alum heads, a b303 camshaft, duraspark ignition, 130 amp taurus alternator and a hot coil. when it's warm, it runs like efi. I've done a fine job of tuning for mild driving. However, getting it tuned for wot throttle and high performance is a whole different ball park. When I start beating the snot out of the throttle, that's when it starts showing it's short comings....which I'm still learning, so I'll get there.
now you're telling us it's doing something totally different from what you posted before. Maybe you shouldn't "beat the snot out of it" That to me sounds like you're too abusive to the engine and nothing's going to satisfy you.
i'd have to go back and read my post a few post back, but whatever I said isn't contrary to what I just said, especially since the info is already in my sig. I built this little 66 mustang to hammer the crap out of. Abusive?? LOL, hell no. Every mechanical aspect on the car is over maintained, but I built this car for one reason, to hammer the snot out of on and off the strip. It's got a 373 8.8 rear from an explorer going on extremely soon (I already have it)...and a full nitrous setup is going on too (which I also have)...but I'm waiting on that until I finish learning how to tune the car properly. I happened upon this 66 free, and the t5 and crate motor for $500 from a friend...I've got another 66 mustang in the driveway with a virgin body that will be the one I baby....but with some roof rust and floor pan rust, the blue 66 makes the perfect toy. I'm still trying to balance adjusting the vacuum advance with the adjustments on the primary jets and secondary jets, and even the acc pump. As I said, for cruising, it runs like efi...but I had a surge/misfire due to too much vacuum advance. I adjusted that back, but went too far, now I dropped my low end power. Also, when I hammer it suddenly, say 4th to 3rd punch, it'll pop out the carb, which I suspect is a lean pop from not enough accelerator pump....and finding the right size jets i proving fun...I love dumping gas on my hands!!! Anyhow, I think it's going to the track for the first time June 5th for a baseline run. Here is a VERY old video...I've done so much more since this video...but this car is gonna be my little 1/4 mle track car when I'm done with it
Once again, I'll repeat myself. You're saying you're going to "hammer the snot out of an engine" tells me everything. And then you're going to add "NOS" ? Good luck pickin up the pieces.
you guys are a bunch of slow moving bores, lol. Ever hear of anyone building a vehicle with the specific intentions of racing it? Not everyone wants a "cruiser" Racing and breaking is part of the game, but it's obvious a few of you haven't gotten into that. Race break upgrade, Race break upgrade...repeat. It's an additiction. That is why I'm building the maverick as a fun cruiser, and the other 66 as a nice resto. One for every reason right? None of them are my DD either, Ultimately it's cheaper by far to tune a carb, but I'll tell you, from a racing standpoint, there is much, much less to tune on a frequent basis with EFI, and that's why I eventually may go efi on the 66, it's much more consistent once it's dialed in. "when" this current engine blows, I'll be shopping for a junkyard 5.8 roller block to build up. KABOOM...let's see what those Hypereutechtic pistons will take (75 shot for now)
I'm running fuel injection with Gt40 heads and intake. I use the Moates Qurterhorse to tune it. The #1 reason for my EFI setup is no mater the weather I can reach in, turn the key and instantly start and go to idle. also I have it setup with a very aggressive timing curve when its at WOT and conservative when cruising. It has very nice street manners.
Oh why not? I was going to leave this one alone because it's so old but for the record, my daily driver will have to be fuel injected. I took the carb off because of the adjusting, points replacing, crappy fuel economy, having to warm it up, etc. Some guys have great luck with carbs but at the time I wanted something a little different. I did this conversion back in 1999 and have put almost 50k miles on it and at 40k, it got it's first set of plugs and I get about 19-20mpg in town(10% ethanol) and 25mpg on the hwy regularly. I've had zero sensor failures, I don't run egr or cats and when it's in the teens in the early morning, I can go out and start it up without touching anything but the key. On the other hand, if I was running a big block car that I drag raced with a little juice, I would be running a carb, no doubt!
If you had simply replaced the points with an electronic module, 90% of the problems you had with the carb would have went bye-bye. And depending on the cam and carb setup, the other 10% would have gone too. My 89 Ranger's roller 5.0 (Explorer shortblock, stock Explorer cam, ported E7 heads, Cobra roller rockers, Ford A321 intake, topped with a Holley 570 Street Avenger carb) would do exactly what you descibe down to 20*F, without a choke. Spark plugs went three years before I changed em, and even then, they still looked like they came out of the box. Fuel mileage was around 16-18 highway without overdrive in a 3500 lb truck.
It was a 2150 motorcraft carb with a worn throttle shaft bore, cracked base plate, an electric choke(which by the way was the only thing that didn't need replacement) and every rubber line on the intake was brittle and falling apart. The distributor was worn out(shaft bushing) and it went through points like crazy.(matchbook came in handy) I had just bought it a year and a half earlier and I already had the complete engine and trans with wiring harness that I got out of a 92 wrecked mark 7 that a buddy of mine found for me before I even owned the Maverick. I had gone the carb route on 2 other Mavericks and a Comet and 2 of those ran great. One was a pretty fast holley 4bbl car. I had an EFI setup and an engine so I figured it was worth a try. Frankly, I'm really happy with the setup but I did not do this because I was giving up on carburetors. Just wanted something different and It runs faster than the 4bbl car I had, gets great gas mileage and starts every time. Did I mention I only open the hood to clean the air filter and change the oil? Plus, mine is a daily driver and I hardly have time for maintenance, much less tinkering with a carb/points setup. To each his own. I'm not trying to persuade anyone one way or the other, but I love driving my car every day!
if the ECM is a SLL4 I don't think tweecar has a strat for that yet. I bought a license for one thats incomplete from popsracing (I am the first to have it) and it has so many functions ans scalers it will make your head spin.
