I need to replace my wheel studs. The lug nuts keep loosening and falling off. When loosened, I can pull the lugs nuts in and out about a half millimeter. The impact wrench I've been using must be too aggressive. One of the brake rotors is only a year old, and I haven't taken the wheels off that many times. The impact wrench is just too convenient. The front rotors are from a 83 Ford Ranger, and it's unclear as to what the right knurl diameter was, so I had a shop do it for $150. I plan to do the rear myself, which I got 1.625" knurl diameter studs for. From what I read this should be correct. I have an air hammer that plan to use to knock out the studs with. I've watched enough videos to get the general idea of how it's done. I'm wondering if there's anything I should know or be cautious about going into this? One video mentioned there's a possibility of messing up the wheel bearings, and really want to avoid causing more problems.
1.625 ? No way. More like .625 It wasn't the impact that did it, you used the wrong size studs. You can do it without pulling the axles. Drive the old stud out, then tap the new one in enough to let the knurling to get a bite, then pull them in with hardened washers stacked enough to keep the nut (on backwards) from bottoming out on the threads.
Also add some lube between the nut and washer, makes it a little easier when it isn't metal on metal.
I meant to type 0.625". From looking it over, it seems that one of the sets I got should fit. I gave it a shot. I sprayed the studs with PB Blaster and let it sit overnight. Then I went at it with the air hammer and they would not budge. I ended up flattening out the tip of the bit on the air hammer. Then I went at it with a 10 pound sledge hammer, and nothing. There's a good chance these have been on there since 1973. The tie rod ends apparently were on there for that long, and that was an amazingly difficult job. It took me an entire day to work each bolt free. I'll have to get back to it in a week or two, after I get back from a trip. Maybe a shop is the only realistic option.
someone may have welded them on the back side. you still may need to pull the axle. if so change the axle seal while out.
I would change the axle bearings too while out. And don't "cheap out" on new bearings, you get what you pay for.
I haven't messed around with rear wheel bearings before. I've had the front ones replaced a few times. The current set has made in Japan on them.
