Coolant leak

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Jett, Jun 9, 2018.

  1. Jett

    Jett Member

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    Hey!

    So there's a coolant leak coming from where the collant pump is, how could I determine if it's the pump itself or just a gasket that need changing?

    And in both cases, how complicated would that be?

    Thanks!
     
  2. cool70mav

    cool70mav Member

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    It’s probably the waterpump. Is it a 6 or 8 cylinder? It’s not that hard to change. There’s alot of how to veido’s on the net. You can surch here as well.
     
  3. Jett

    Jett Member

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    Thanks, it's a 250 straight 6, I will look on line then :)

    Cheers
     
  4. Craig Selvey

    Craig Selvey Indiana State Rep - MCCI Supporting Member

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    There is a weep hole on the underneath "snout" of the water pump. When the internal seal goes bad, it will leak out of that weep hole. Also, with the motor not running, grab the fan and see if it "wiggles". The wiggle will indicate the water pump bearing is bad or heading that way.
     
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  5. Jett

    Jett Member

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    Thanks! I will check those
     
  6. Jett

    Jett Member

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    So it is def wet below, the thermostat housing is also slightly leaking as it seams the gasket is dead. But mostly the below of the water pump is very wet even days after the engine ran last.

    But the fan does not wiggle AT ALL.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks!
     
  7. dyent

    dyent Member

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    The seal in the water pump can still go without the bearing going bad too, since you mentioned the thermostat housing/gasket is leaking, why not change gasket/reseal that first? Process of elimination, once you fixed that, then you will know for sure whether or not the water pump is leaking too.........good luck!
    David
     
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  8. Jett

    Jett Member

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    Thank you! If I decide to swap the water pump, is it easier to drop the radiator first for more room?
     
  9. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    It's always easier to accomplish a replacement/upgrade the less things you have to work around. I have worked on/replacing parts where I would have been easier to remove things limiting access. And, in some cases, had to remove them anyway to get job done. Not saying, you may not be able to replace pump w/ rad in place. I don't know how the inline's access space for removing pump...
     
  10. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    The radiator won't drop more than a inch or so, pulls out top.

    For rad removal the transmission cooler lines are the largest PITA, must be disconnected from under car. Also likely, adapter(s) in radiator will rotate, possibly damaging the steel line. Removal will require use of two wrenches at once(at least to break loose and re-tighten). After that it'll probably leak fluid, mine did, had to replace one of the fittings.

    Having a std transmission is a BIG plus when removing radiator.
     
  11. Jett

    Jett Member

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    Thank you guys for all those advices.
    One more question, I will have to drain fluid anyway, when I put it back in at the end, how do I bleed the system to be sure it's good?

    Thanks
     
  12. Jett

    Jett Member

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    and bonus one, my fan shroud is in dire condition, where could I find a replacement?
     
  13. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    Some suggest drilling a hole in the thermostat to accomplish bleeding air from system. I have never had an issue w/ air causing problems. I have never done anything but refill the system w/ coolant.

    If your looking for new shroud, might want to check some of the vendors, Autokrafters being one. You might want to put add in wanted section on the forum to get used or get one locally.
     
  14. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    some T-stats come with a hole already in them...has a pin in it, I cut the pin out.
     
  15. Jett

    Jett Member

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    Thanks guys, thanks to your assistance and my tools it's now running again :)
     

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