It may not. She has fallen into a deep mode of irresponsibility. It may become my daily driver and she gets the "yucky green, most un-cool" Taurus. I just spent over $1,000 for her to go to New York to participate in a choir that sang at Carnegie Hall and her attitude has worsened.
I agree with all of the advice already given. We also shy away from paint jobs where someone else has done the bodywork. You never really know just whats hiding under the primer. It could be baremetal or two inches of bodyfiller. If a customer insist on a paint job anyway, we charge them from $1200 to $1500 with absolutely no guarentees on anything. That is even if the car is already sanded. What you get is a basic paint job with one or two coats of clear. No wet sanding. If the bondo cracks or starts bubbling, or the paint peels, it's not our problem. That price may sound high, but the cost of materials is the most expensive part of the process and the rest is the time and labor to do the job. Material cost are just unbelievably expensive and a lot of people just don't understand that. We had one guy offer to buy his own materials and paint so he could save some money. What he showed up with was a box of sandpaper for woodworking and some cheap lawn and tractor enamal. We told him we were not a John Deere dealership and to take the car to MAACO.
lol hey talking about maaco, how are the paint jobs there? I have thought about going there, I hear they do cheap paint jobs for like 400 bucks, but that they do not last long. Anyone ever been there?
Ooohh yeahhh. I used to work for one of them. That was 10 years ago BTW. I can't speak for the rest of the MAACO's across the country, but the one I worked for was a butcher shop. The only good jobs that came out of the place I worked for were the ones where someone else did all the prep work ( bodywork and the sanding). The masking was always great. That was my job. They tend to use the cheaper brands of paint. At least my shop did anyway.The paint jobs were half decent, but you need to remember that they paint cars like an assembly line: one car an hour. Heck, we used to paint up to 50 cars a week in the summertime. In other words, everything is rush, rush, rush. My advice if you want to go the MAACO route is to have all the prep work already done so all the have to do is mask the car and paint it.
oh ok cool. I dont want a perfect paint job or even one that will last for a long time. just sometthing so the car wont look so colorless. for a while
If you were ever going to get a really nice paint job on the car later I would'nt have a MAACO paint job put on it at all. Thats just another thing you will have to pay to have removed should you ever want the car done right! I just painted a car for a friend that had a similar MAACO paint job...and what a nightmare! The paint they use is crap and it takes forever to sand it off, half the paint wasn't even cured (still gooey) under the one coat of clear, it was just a total mess and took 3 times as long as I thought it would to prep the car for paint. My advice would be to drive it colorless until you can afford the proper paint job. And they will paint right over anything thats not taped off, and even body filler thats not sanded. It may look shiny for a very short while but you will regret it in time.
Honestly, I'll third that. I knew the shop I worked for was a first-class rip-off joint, so I just assumed the rest of them operated the same way. With shops like them, you pay for cheap and you get cheap results. In some cases you don't even get what you pay for either. My shop used the crappiest paint they could buy in bulk. I think it was the bottom of the barrel Sherwin-Williams stuff. The clear coat wasn't even clear. Good clear coat is as transparent as water. The stuff we used had a yellow tint to it. Every time we painted a white car and cleared it, it would turn a sickly yellow as the clear cured. No matter how much our painter complained to the shop owner about it, nobody would listen. Our painter finally refused to clear coat any car that was white, which the the manager and shop owner knew about, but they continued to sell customers who had white cars the clear coat anyway. I can't begin to remember how many people paid for clear coat and didn't get it. I could tell you dozens of horror stories involving MAACO. I'm actually ashamed to admit I even worked for that gip-joint. But knowing what I know about them and how they do things is why I would never recommend them to anyone who has a car they care about.
Not that I disagree with the above, but back in 78 I had a MAcco job on a 64 Malibu I owned and they did a fantastic job. That was in FL.
Has anyone seen the mopar thread floating around where the guy painted his charger using a 4 inch roller and rustoleum paint for $50? http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1
is anyone around central cali (santa maria) that know anything about body work or paint cause all i did is take metal shop and wood shop in high school so i just sand to steel and paint so if anyone could send me a pm or something thanks
I worked for a company that restored mustangs, we had a few make it into mustang monthly magazine. It costs so much money to do the best work, they often were in the hole and always used new customers money to pay for the old ones. They finally went out of business or got sued, not sure, but they taught me everything I know about painting. I do some side work here in Florida, but thats a bit far for you Here is a 1980 Ferrari I did. Took me over 1 year but came out real nice, keep in mind this is after the front was totaled, I had to hand construct the entire front passanger side. Ben
GUYS!!! You GOTTA look at that mopar site...it is amazing what that guy did with roll on paint. I don't know how well it protects the metal underneath, but the finished products look REALLY GOOD!!!
About that thread on the Mopar site. I used the Rustoleum Black on a frame and engine compartment of a 71 LeMans I used to have, but I sprayed it with a regular paint gun as you would any other paint. I thinned it down like he said and I even put some "wet look enamel hardener" my brother had left over from his car. It dried in a couple hours with the hardener in it and it was glossy as crap, I was impressed, especially since it only costed about $25. It was hard to chip or scratch like he says (believe me I tried lol), so it works really well for a frame. I dont know if I would put it on with a foam brush over an entire car...I doubt it.
