Well, it's not gonna be a "bolt-in", although there's no alterations to the factory pieces (yet). I made a plate today that mounts to the rear of the outer cluster panel. While trying to install the unit, I found I needed to shorten all 4 studs that hold the gauges to the panel, grind a relief notch on the steering column support, and remove, trim & patch the defroster duct. That's to get the thing installed, there's still the matter of indicator lamps (L turn, R turn, alt, brakes, & hi-beams) and the fuel gauge. Our factory senders are 70Ω - 10Ω and this gauge requires a 240Ω - 33Ω sender. I've asked around and there's no apparent way to convert the signal electrically, so I guess I'll be sawing off the resistor on my brand new fuel pickup assembly so I can weld on the correct Autometer float assembly. Or I could cut another hole in the top to mount it as designed... Russ
I can't believe they didn't offer it for our ford senders. If I remember right I think you can tell them what resistance you need and they have it all ready that you just add without cutting anything. I would call and ask before I cut anything. I did the same set up with digital guages a few years back and Frank has digital like yours that have the 4 in 1 and the 2 in 1 like you, mine were just separate speedo and a tach in the 2 holes. I never did anything about the turn signals, I've been side tracked for a few years now.
Wow!! When I first saw the gauges they didn't do much for me. But once installed in your dash pod, they look great!!!!!!!!
I thought about trying something like that, but never have. Keep us informed on how your dash turns out It be great to have more gauge options
Got it done, except for final paint and lettering. A pencil type shift light is angle mounted high between the main bezels through a hand cut hole. The small indicator lights are angled the same as the main gauges, which was quite tricky to do. I drilled all the preliminary holes with a 1/8" bit straight into the panel, then while running the drill, angled the bit up to match the angle of the gauges. Next, I cut some 1" long sections of 3/4" diameter acrylic rod and center-drilled them with a 1/8" bit on my lathe. Then ground the inner edge to match the angle of the panel. Then epoxied the acrylic to the rear of the panel using 1/8" drill bits as guides to ensure the angles were right. After setting up overnight, I used a 3/8" countertop router bit (with the bearing removed it just happens to have a 1/8" pilot stud) in my drill press to "spot face" a 3/8" hole into the panel deep enough to countersink the LED below the lower surface. The LED was a tight fit, so I enlarged the pilot hole to 3/16" and (by hand) pushed the router bit around the edge to enlarge the countersunk hole. LED fit great, so then I used a 5/16" bit to push through the length of the acrylic stand. Job done! Once I figure out what color I want, I'll paint the cluster and letter the LEDs. Russ
The LED's are from Jeg's, mount in a 5/16" hole and are rated for 14V. IIRC, they were $5.99 ea... Russ
That is a very cool idea, but it's just a lil too busy for me. I like my gauges spaced out (seperated) so I can distinguish one from another. But that is a good idea thou.
looking good, im doing right now a similar mod but keeping the original gauges, i also used coreldraw to draw the gauges after i scanned em, i will print it on adhesive paper so my gauges will be customized and white faced, i also bought blue leds for the lightning and painted the interior of the panel white.
