Hi Jean, Thanks for the response. The black satin: is it single stage or black base with satin clear? I love y'alls work. Thank you for sharing all of this! I still have the Auto Restorer from the other stallion. I need to dig it back out and reread it. Steve
The paint we used on the trim pieces was Krylon Satin Black. Because of the flexability of of parts like window moldings, we try to avoid putting multible layers of paint on them. It's too easy for them to twist or flex while trying to get them back on thier clips. If the paint is too thick it can crack or peel off. We used the same process when we re-painted the moldings on our old Stallion and had great results. The best part is if the moldings get a stone chip the Krylon Satin Black is easy to find, easy to touch up and the paint will always match.
Wow, Thanks. Simple and effective! This is a typical example of me trying to make things harder than they should be. Now that I know, I can redo the peeling, flaking trim on mine. It is far from a whole repaint, but it should improve the looks. I can redo a few pieces at a time. Would you use paint stripper to remove the maaco paint on the trim or gently sand it down? Steve
I prefer to remove any and all paint that is on any moldings we are going to paint or re-paint. The less buildup of paint on them the better. Plus once you get down to the stainless or alumimum you have a good, clean surface to work with. I have used paint stripper combined with a steel wool pad on moldings in the past and it's the quickest method to remove the paint that I have found. The moldings have to be thoroughly washed with soap and water to remove all traces of the stripper, but that's easy to do with moldings. Then sand them with 320 sandpaper. We prime them with epoxy primer. The epoxy primer assures that the paint will stick better and prevents problems like paint lifting. I'm not sure if you can get epoxy primer in a spray can, but self etching primer should also work.
