Desert Mavericks.......Sand Box

Heres a heads up guys, Theres a complete roller motor with GT40 heads for sale on craiglist for $400. Says complete minus A/C compressor. Not a bad deal at all. http://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/pts/2888192869.html

 

I just got off the phone with the owner. Engine has 180,000 on it. Hes in west phx I told him Id be over Sunday AM to look at it. Im probably gonna pass on it. I think I want to have my Mex Block machined for roller lifters.

 

Might not be worth it to you since your going with different heads. But $400 for a roller block with Gt40s is a steal. The heads sell for $200 easy. a rebuldable roller block is 2-300. Plus all the front end accessory brackets are 100 or so. and not having to piece it all togethor if doing a v8 swap... priceless. And it comes with shorty headers you can GIVE me for my Mustang. What A deal.

BTW, I know the guy selling it, hes in one of my local Mustang boards. Good guy and Id trust what he says.

 

I have a serpentine system down here with all the goodies that a guy wants 60 bucks for. Im gonna check it out tonite. He has some other stuff I want to look at. So I might just stay local on this. Besides Sunday is gonna wear me out.

 

I hope I can make it. I'm trying to set my timing curve but I'm having issues finding more info like what I should be shooting for, I don't know if I should start a thread on tuning... with the mr. gasket kit I came all in at 2300 RPMs, than I changed one of the springs with the lighter of the stock ones and now it doesn't move from idle to 1200 RPMs than it goes all in at around 2600 RPMs. The thing I'm trying to figure out is what am I looking for, I know if I bend the tabs I can increase or decrease tension on the springs but doesn't that just move the curve up or down on the RPM band? I don't know if I should weld a tab on the swing to decrease the total advancement so I can have increased base, should I just what? AAGGGHHHH!!!

 

Who this be?

Hmm.. it be interesting to play with it on the dyno..

 

Alex the guy selling it is Jeff (My87,89).

David, I think you are over thinking it. What are you trying to accomplish with the curve? If you are just looking for max power output then the cant be that important. Youd want all your timing in by 3000 and you total timing set to as much as the car can take withing detonation. But If you are playing with it for fuel mielage and drivability then you will want a slower to advance srping but still want all timing in by 3000.

 

Resto - If you are going to make anything north of 500hp you should stick with the Mexican block. There are link bar lifters (albeit quite pricey) that will work for a hydraulic roller setup where you don't need to machine the block. Since they are made for the correct block you don't have to worry about them leaking oil by having the groove too high. I've been down that road and had a Mexican block all ready to go. They are much thicker in all the important areas. I ended up changing to the aftermarket block instead due to my stupid hp goals, so I sold off the Mexican along with the lifters.

 

Im going to stick with the Mexican Block and retrofit roller cam with this car. Just not liking the price of linkbar lifters

 

I'm trying to get it to come in at around 3000 but so far I'm getting 2300/2600 I don't know if it's that big of a deal... I do tend to overthink things... what about the no increase in timing between idle and 1200?

 

Do you also have a vacuum advance? Either way I think what you have now is fine. I played with all the different springs that came with my MSD distributor when I was at the track once. None of them made a difference in my times. As long as you are getting the max timing that you want by 3000 you should be just fine. Besides the spring rates there are ways to have a wider range of increse. like 20 degree increase lets you go form 10 initial to total of 30. If you want more total timing like say 34 but your car idles bad at 14 initial then you want to adjust to get 24 degrees of advance. My MSD came with different bushings to give a differnt amount of advance over base. I only see these as being useful if trying to pass the sniffer test. Otherwise set it at 12 and a total of 32 should be fine, more or less depending on cam.

 

I have a 13 degree arm which equates to 26 so right now I have 10 base at idle of 800 to 1200 than 36 total at 2600 rpms. if I use the both springs that came with the kit it increases from idle to 2300 rpms. I'm thinking about using a old spring as a spacer to limit the total swing... btw I have a 280 cam and my compression is around 9.5 or so.

 

What are you trying to achieve with the tuning? Max hp at full throttle, increase throttle response, better mpg? depending on what your goal is there are different ways to go about.

Id say you pick your goal, make a new thread in the tech section, say what youve done so far and see what eveybody thinks would be best to do depending on what your goal is.

 

alright, I'm thread jacking now anyway... I do have a thread in the tech section called can a stock distributor be modified which than turned to what I'm asking now but I've only had two people respond to me... my target is optimum combustion... so mpg, throttle response, and hp should result... think more road race than drag strip.

 

his name is Rob not jeff... if its the same guy.. has the red hatchback?