Yeah, that's what Darth Vader thought too...come to the dark side Luke! I've got the intake, the 160lb injectors, the throttle body and my son is working on building the fuel rails for me. I'm still deciding on which ECU to go with...Fast, Megasquirt, Big Stuff 3, Holley Dominator, and the list goes on. But before any of that can happen I have to decide if I want to use the ECU to drive the ignition or if I should just stay with my MSD 7+ digital. There is a lot to be said for having just one complete system that works together, but I've been using MSD products for ignition forever and it would be a waste of processor not to use the MSD. I don't know which way to go.
I have a couple 3g 130amp alternators if anybody needs one. They are pretty clean and used rebuilt units, not 15 year old OE ones. Have the plugs and pigtails. $60
anybody in the phoenix area done a 3g alternater swap. I am in the process but can not get it to charge some help would be much appreciated.
I just cant get it to charge wiring is not my best skill, I think the exciter wire is done wrong maybe
To the alt light but ive read where people dont use them at all or they hook it up to the positive side of coil or they wire in a resister im so confused
I have mine hooked up so when I turn on the car it get energized. It's getting a full 12 volts on mine.
Man I am nervous telling you that. I have mine wired so that when I turn on the fuel pump (+12volts) I am also sending 12 volts to the thin dark green/red wire of the alternator. The only other two connections to my car are the big power wire that goes to the battery and the ground. Everything else was built into the harness that they sent me with my 3G. My concern is that I don't know what is in that short piece of harness. They have it covered in heat shrink and I cannot tell if there are additional components in there. It could very well have a resistor and I don't know it. So I guess that I'm not certain what to tell you. If people are saying that you should have a resistor in line, you will be safer adding it than not. The reason I say that is that without it you could burn something up. If you add it and it doesn't need it, it probably just won't work (but it shouldn't hurt anything).
A 500 ohm resistor would do the trick. Just wire it in series on the green and red wire from a 12 volt switched source. Several cars that use an indicator light use a 500 ohm resistor wired in parallel across the indicator circuit inside the instrument cluster so the charging system will still operate in the event the bulb blows.
Hows everybody doing during this summer hibernation? Ill be celebrating the 4th of July getting a new a/c unit for the house. This 13 year old compressor finally took a ****. Havent done **** to the cars in a while and dont plan to.