i just finished my v8 swap and i need to know if its ok to run a manual disk/drum setup with a manual drum/drum master cylinder. (btw can anyone help me estimate my HP. i have long tube headers, dual exhaust with glasspacks, a freshly rebuilt ford 302 from a 1989 truck, a dual plane performance intake and a 600 cfm 4 barrel carb and a hei distrubutor all under the hood of my 72' all original rust free grabber)
"a manual disk/drum setup with a manual drum/drum master cylinder." I and others have ran that set up for years with no problems.
The drum brake cylinders are supposed to have a check valve to limit the amount of fluid that gets pushed back into master cylinder from the brake shoes retracting, thus pushing fluid out of wheel cylinders... Years ago when I asked Ford mechanics, I got a bunch of gloom & doom that using a drum MC with disc it was possible to lock the rotors because it may not release pressure... In the real world, doesn't seem to be a issue... No idea on Hp without engine specs, (cam, heads, intake, etc)...
Assuming the engine is otherwise stock, approximately 195 HP at the rear wheels. 240-250 at the crank. That is my guestimate.
There are other conciderations besides the check valve in the drum vs disc master debate. Disc brake reservoirs have a larger pot for the fronts, as the pads wear the fluid level drops more because the piston stays extended in the bore so more fluid stays in the caliper. The bore is often different too which will affect pedal pressure. Still not deal breakers but me personally, I'll run the right stuff on mine, master cylinders aren't that expensive in the grand scheme of things.
My drum/drum master didn't release pressure on the rotors. I got a lead on where to get a disc/drum master off a green Maverick sitting on a lift at the top of the hill.
LOL Except for a '69 Ranchero I had like 99 years ago, I've always used the appropriate MC... For that one I ran a drill in the front brake fluid outlet, then washed it out, always worked OK...
