Probably for 240/300 but not possible for 170/200/250, again the intake is part of the head. The larger 6 cyl has a easily removed intake.
I believe there is a company in Australia that had alum. head for 170-200 blocks. I don't know if it's still making/offering them -- they were/are quite pricey.
sorry your right, it is an aluminum head for the 250 http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-...formance-cylinder-head-for-ford-six-cylinders I was wondering if anyone on the forum has tried installing one.
Thank you everyone again for the input. Final question, should I go with the Pertonix Ignitor I or Ignitor II? I read that the II was a bit upgraded. Would this work on a 250 inline?
I don't remember if I used a I or II but I pulled my receipt and here is what I used in my 74/250: * Pertronix PRT1261 Ignitor conversion kit * PRT40511 Flame-Thrower Black oil filled 3 ohm coil. The whole thing took me less than an hour to install and the car fired right up. Have fun with it.
Cool. Just ordered the same set up! I also got some new wires and will probably replace my plugs. I read that the recommended gap is to add 0.005. I found on another post some specs but am a bit confused why the California gap is 0.010 more? Should I be gapping to 0.047?
The label on the engine says 0.032-0.036 and with the recommended 0.005 increase, that raised the spec to 0.037-0.041 for an average of 0.039. I rounded up and set mine to 0.040 and called it a day. This worked well. I ignored the California recommendation since I live in Michigan. Since your in California I suppose if you wanted to you could add 0.010" to the low end of the factory spec and set them to 0.042". I used Autolite AP46 plugs and also installed a new distributor cap. I think you will be pleased with the results you get.
I received my Ignitor and coil in the mail today! Waiting on my spark plug wires to arrive tomorrow. One more additional question/would like confirmation. I do not think I have a ballast resistor in my car.According to the instructions I will hook this up directly to the coil. I am able to connect the wires without having to splice anything correct? I can simply connect the new Ignitor wire loops underneath the current coil plugs? Secondly. My wires leading to the coil are RED and GREEN. I am assuming that the RED is the positive. What is the best method to confirm? I am going based off pictures (currently at work), not sure if the coil has them labeled? I will double check tonight when I try my install! Thank you all!
I attached a photo of mine. The red from the ignitor and the hot from the ignition switch both go to the + side of the coil. The black from the ignitor to the - side of the coil. No resistor on mine. The best way to determine the hot ignition wire is connect a voltmeter to the wire that you think it is and to ground. With the key turned on it should show 12volts dc, with key off it should go to zero.
EVERY Ford from early '60s has a resistance wire embedded in harness, no exception. The Ignitor-I should be happy connected to the normal coil feed, the Ignitor II & III requires the resistance wire be bypassed.
I didn't bypass anything and it works fine but this it as you said because I have the Ignitor-1. I got curious and checked the wiring diagram and sure enough it shows two resistors in series on wire 16 to the coil. Where are those resistors physically located? In case I were to ever upgrade to the Ignitor 2 I will need to bypass them.
Update. I finally got a chance to look at my car and I was a bit confused. Does this look stock? I traced the wires back from the current inside and it leads to the harness attached. I was planning on continuing to removing the contents of the distributor and installing the Ignitor. Will I be okay to leave the harness unattached and just moved out of the way? I saw the symbols on my current coil and saw that the yellow cap is my negative port. should I place the new ignition cables underneath these ends but reconnect these after? My negative wire is damaged. Will I be okay or should I attempt to replace the wire? Also I know my rotor didn’t look good so I purchased a new one. Thanks!
You already have the electronic Duraspark system installed. Pertronix Ignitor replaces points, can't be used in a electronic dist.
Thanks for the info! I feel really dumb but I honestly have no idea with certain car components. Do you recommend I still upgrade my coil to the flamethrower 1, the plugs (I have them gapped at .40, should I decrease gap?), and install the PerTronix 706101 spark plug wires? I wouldn’t mind installing the parts if it makes sense, don’t really want to deal with the returns.
