Drum To Disc Interchange

Discussion in 'Parts Interchange' started by 1MadMav, Mar 1, 2008.

  1. 1MadMav

    1MadMav Member

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    Hello All,

    I am looking at changing out my front drums to disc's and have some questions that I'm hoping someone can help with...

    I have located a 1976 manual disc setup that is complete except for the proportioning valve and master cylinder. Will I notice a huge difference in braking with a manual disc setup versus the old drum setup currently in my car? The drum front end is terrible at best even with all new parts...

    My questions are:

    #1 Can I use the current manual drum proportioning valve that is currently in my car with this setup and will it operate correctly as it should?

    #2 With the manual disc setup should I purchase a master cylinder for the 1976 (which is smaller with equal size fluid reservoirs) or utilize the current 72 master (which is larger and has 1 large fluid reservoir and 1 small fluid reservoir).

    #3 If I decide to add a power booster later can I just add it along with power proportioning valve? Will Granada power proportioning valve work with Maverick power booster/master cylinder?

    Please help!


    Thank You.

    1MadMav:hmmm:
     
  2. Jamie Miles

    Jamie Miles the road warrior

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    I have front discs on my '72 originally off of a power brake '76, I drive the car every single day in all weather. I am running the original drum brake proportioning valve and master cylinder with no problems what so ever. I didn't even touch the steel brake lines, just added a 8 inch piece to the original drum brake line with a union, bent to curve back around 180 degrees. All this has been discussed many times before if you try the search button.
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2008
  3. Mavaholic

    Mavaholic Growing older but not up! Supporting Member

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    I also added only front disc to my all drum set brake system. Best bet is to go to a large empty parking lot on a rainy day. Get up some speed and slam on the brakes. As long as the rear wheels do not lock up before the front, your ok. If they do, you can buy a manual regulator that easily mounts on the rear brake line and adjust the bias until they no longer lock up. Way easier than changing the factory proportioning valve and lines. As far as adding a booster, check out this thread. http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=36934&highlight=waste+time I bought one as Mavdog suggested and it fits great. Not to mention it will save you about a weekend's work over the factory booster set up.
     
  4. ratio411

    ratio411 Member

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    What they said.

    I will just add that if you eventually put a power booster on there, you need to move the pin in the pedal arm. The one that pushes the rod into the master...

    The non-power location is placed to give your foot a great deal of leverage on the master.
    When you install power assist, you need to move the pushrod pin to a position of less leverage on the master. If you don't, you won't be able to push the brake pedal soft enough to stop smoothly.
    This is why power brakes are hard to stop when you lose the booster...
    Not because the brakes are any different, just that the pedal has much less leverage on the master.

    Personally, I would just get a manual valve from Summit for cheap, if it even needs one, and just leave it manual disc.
    The car is so light and nimble that power assist is overkill.
    Also in the way if you have, or want to convert to, a manual tranny.
     
  5. Dean Deeter

    Dean Deeter Member

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    I have done two swaps one on a 74 comet and one on a 74 mav. I used the orginal value on both swaps and have had no problems.
     
  6. Jamie Miles

    Jamie Miles the road warrior

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    I have to agree. The power assist is even over kill in my dad's '71 Torino, which has a literally 100% identical brake system to the Maverick (same spindles and everything). We won't even go there about the way overkill one finger power steering. :)
     
  7. scott

    scott Member

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    definately do not need power brakes... that said... if you go to buy a new master make sure to specify MANUAL brakes. the master is different.
     

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