EdelBrock 4 BBL and Trans kick down rod help.

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Bad1974maverick, May 10, 2018.

  1. Bad1974maverick

    Bad1974maverick Member

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    I am actually not sure if I have the adjustable modulator or not. The engine isn't really "modded" per Se. The t original carb went bad and I had a new 4 bbl 500 cfm and intake on the shelf and I just wanted to drive it. Thats the only modification. That and I removed a solenoid that was electric that was attached to the carb on the throttle side that pointed towards it. Almost like a cruise control solenoid, I don't know. It looked as if it had a piston that came out and would push on the throttle linkage. It didn't work so I took it off. There was no cruise button in the car anywhere. A/C kicker? it does have AC. idle stop solenoid?
     
  2. jasonwthompson

    jasonwthompson Member

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    Don't worry about, or mess with the modulator on the trans. If the car is factory whatever it is set to will be fine. The solenoid from the carb is for AC cars. When the compressor engages it is supposed to slightly increase the idle speed. Just get your linkage hooked up and enjoy the ride.
     
  3. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    Yep, increases idle with A/C on...
     
  4. Bad1974maverick

    Bad1974maverick Member

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    Thanks guys. I plan on keeping the car all stock and putting the original carb back on it. Will I need that solenoid when I redo the A/C? I assume I will.
     
  5. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    Without solenoid, engine will be prone to stalling at idle with A/C on...
     
  6. Bad1974maverick

    Bad1974maverick Member

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    Got all the parts in today to finish the Carb right! Then brake lines and a small timing cover leak (gasket replacement) and I'm off to DRIVE!!!
     
  7. Bad1974maverick

    Bad1974maverick Member

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    Well I got the carb set up but I could not get the trans kick rod extension to work in any capacity. If I tried to hook it up the throttle linkage would bind and the secondaries wouldn't open. This is how I have it now. Is this right?
    The instructions told me to place the spring in that location and I guess it works, seems more like throttle return but it is working.
     

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  8. groberts101

    groberts101 Member

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    Looks right but also looks as though the throttle cable bracket is skewed at an angle which could cause the binding you describe. Also looks like the kickdown rod may be rubbing on that throttle bracket as well.

    I'd modify the bracket to run parallel with carb linkage.. or just make a new one altogether.
     
  9. Bad1974maverick

    Bad1974maverick Member

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    I am planning to modify a bracket to closer straighten out the throttle. It only bound up with the kick down lever extension kit on it. I took it off and it ran fine with no binding at all. I have a video of it but I dont know how to post it. The kick down rod is about 1/8 of an inch away from the bracket, it's actually not touching it, I double checked after you posted.
     
  10. Bad1974maverick

    Bad1974maverick Member

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    Okay, got the car back from the shop, new front brake lines are done. I didn't need the 8011 kick down extension, just the 1483 lever kit. Had the mechanic check the kick down and carb settings just to make sure I was close and he said he didn't have to adjust anything (woohoo). Now I just need to find a few medium blue interior parts, and figure out how to get the A/C restored and a paint job.
    Off topic question guys. The windshield wipers worked, then they didn't work after sitting a while, then started working again but very slowly, now they work slowly and then slowly come to a stop. Bad wiper motor?
     
  11. Bad1974maverick

    Bad1974maverick Member

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    Well I went to NAPA to pick up the door pins I needed, and surprise, the car over heated on the way back on the freeway. 5 miles and I got to drive along side a Ford GT. The motor is newer so I hope it's a simple issue. no white smoke out the exhaust, I'm not putting another motor or head gasket set on it. very deflating today.
     

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  12. groberts101

    groberts101 Member

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    Maybe you overheated trying to keep up for pictures? Lol

    Seriously though.. have you ever tuned this motor with a vac gauge and timing light to know where things are at?
     
  13. Bad1974maverick

    Bad1974maverick Member

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    No I haven't done much to it since, I just let it sit overnight. I just started it and looked down in the top of the radiator, I can see some flow, but not a whole lot, So ima start with the T-stat, look at the water pump too. If fired right up no white smoke, nothing at all, so I don't think the engine or head gasket suffered from damage. I did notice a slight hi-cup at idle, so I'm definitely going to check the timing.
     
  14. Bad1974maverick

    Bad1974maverick Member

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    Car is being looked at to make sure the cooling system is okay and it's timed right. Last year the distributor bearing went bad in it so timing could be a factor. I have two additional questions for all those maverick guru's out there. the exhaust is in bad shape and I just realized the parking brake cable is broken. is there a place that I can get parking brake cables and or parts to finish it? I think I have most. It worked until (sort of) until the cable snapped. And finally, the exhaust is bad, real bad. Should I keep it single exhaust or have the muffler shop do duel exhaust? the car is all factory (minus thermactor emissions). It does have a 4bbl carb but once the factory 2bbl is rebuilt I will put it back on. any thoughts on the cables/keeping the exhaust single?
     
  15. jasonwthompson

    jasonwthompson Member

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    Why go back to 2 barrel? The 2 primaries on your 4 barrel are probably smaller than the factory 2 barrel. Just keep your foot out of it if you are concerned about mpg. Dual exhaust may cost a bit more than single, but I would go dual on a V8 every time, otherwise it is like jogging with one nostril closed. Not to sound flippant, but almost no one cares about keeping these cars factory original. As a matter of fact, in my opinion, these cars need some level of modifications to make them reliable daily drivers. Which cable is broken? I seem to remember a single cable from the handle that then connects to another cable attached to the backing plates.
     

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