we ran the wires through the door ledge where you step on the right side. The left side is gonna have more wires run for the MSD.
we ran two cables. one is a 0 gage cable for the starter. the other was a 6 gage that went to the big lug on the alt. the power wire for the car goes there and the fan goes there.
Why not just place an inline fuse on each wire from the fan...if it blows then you know where the problem is originating from. Another thing...are you running a 30 amp relay for the low wire and a higher amp relay(starter relay is best) for the high speed wire? if not you could be burning the motor up that way, any power higher then that = death Im still convinced its an electrical problem...I dont see 2 fans dying so quickly unless you and Murphy are best friends
the first fan failed because the clip that held the fan on the motor came off and let the fan walk off the end of the motor. when that happened the shaft of the motor got messed up and the fan got messed up. the second fan came from the salvage yard and we did notice that that it clicked when it you spun it but didnt think about that. we should have realized that the motor was in bad condition and got a different fan. we did get the warntee so we were able to exchange it of another. this new fan spins smoothly. the 6 gage wire mentioned earlyer goes from the bat to the alt. there is a fuse for the fan and we are only useing the high speed.
Oh ok, I wasnt too sure the details on how the first one came off, I knew how it had though. Im not questioning your work Bryant, youve tackled more then I would...lol I got mad the other week when I went out to put fog lights on my car, I woulda never been able to do a fan motor
If the battery is in the trunk and a 130 amp alternator in under the hood then the charge wire is too small for the job. It should be 4 gauge or bigger to prevent voltage loss. http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/charge_wires.html
it's doing a great job charging, but I'll keep that in mind if I run into any problems. And also, there is an in line fuse that I'm running for the fan so that should be ok. As Bryant mentioned, only one of the fan problems was electrical, the first one died due to mechanical trauma. By the way, I LOVE my electrical. This thing is doing a great job, today the weather was kinda warm again but I'm right at 190 degrees even with the AC on.
that is a possible problem. but the reason ford started puting 130 amp alts on is that the eletric load on the moddern cars can be pretty high. in a class i took once we disconected the alt on a tauras and put an inductive amp meter on a bat cable. we started the car and turned on each eletrical circuit one at a time. the rear window defroster took the highest amount of amps to work. the eletical load on mo's car cant even begin to draw that level of amprage, plus that 6 gage cable only connects the battery to the alternator. the fan has its own cable wich is 6 or 8 gage, wich is way bigger than it needs to be but thats what mo got. there is not other significant eletric load in mo's car that is not stock. i truely doubt that it will cause a problem. also if he switches to a newer style starter i will change how its wired. my car is wired this way. i will have the 0 gage cable going to the starter. then ill put a 6 gage cable from the starter to the alt. if and or when we put a battery shut off switch in the car ill use the orignal 6 gage wire to go from the bat switch to a common power point in the front of the car for all power for the car to use.
Thanks. We posted at exactly the same time. FWIW, when I ran a trunk mounted battery I used 2/0 cable. When calculating the wire length / voltage drop in a car you need to also include the length to the battery (-) terminal regardless if a chassis ground or wire ground is used.
Just throwing this info out,,,, chassis grounding is so-so at the best. Proper ground wire an sizing is as important as your positive cable. Glad fan is keeping car cool, even with a/c! Wish I needed a/c up north right now!!!
