yeah, for 25 i thought it was something different, so i asked for the pic. but its the same thing i've been looking at. the guy at my local mustang house says you cant use them on mavericks only mustangs 67-70, but autokrafters sells one that says it can be usd for maverick 69-77. i'm going to be ordering mine today.. any tips on installation?
I got one about 7-8 years ago, some Mustang site. The rebuilt PS control valve was going for $120. This is just a PS control valve with all the guts removed and a few bits put in to make a socket for the ball to sit in and a grease fitting. A control valve can be rebuilt in a half hour or so, this thing in a matter of minutes. Bottom line, a company that rebuilds PS control valves can use otherwise worthless cores to build a non-sliding, non-valving replacement for a hydraulic valve.
Tips, measure from the center line of your PS valve to a fixed point on your centerlink and try to get your adapter as close to that measurement as possible. It is pretty straightforward. For the record, the pitman has always been one of the more expensive parts in the front end. I think its because they don't usually wear out, low volume part. As far as I know, the control valve is the same from the Falcons with PS to the Mustangs, Gran Torinos, Fairlanes, Mavericks/Comets, etc...
just ordered my adapter from autokrafters, 159 bucks with shipping and all. sheesh i'm just throwing all my money out.
The one I have pictured above is around $150, the $25 item is a kit that you put inside your existing power valve to lock it all down solid. It is usually advertised to "keep your original appearance".
Just for those who want to know, the manual centerlink and pitman arm are up to $220 now. $95 for the pitman arm and $126 for the centerlink. Same end result but a cleaner installation.
Just to throw this out there for argument... I have heard that the locked up ball in either of the manual conversions is prone to popping out of the socket. Going with a manual centerlink prevents this from ever happening, which is why I went that route.
scooper, using a conversion kit on the existing cylinder would not eliminate the clearance problem unfortunately. that is why the adapter i list was used on mine. if the cylinder cleared i would have left it power because i never had problems until installing the headers...
apologies again, new camera troubles.... here is a pic of the one im using in a downsized resolution.
So if you go with the manual steering adaptor, what do I do about the belt and power steering pump. Can I just unhook the lines from the pump, remove the steering cylinder from under the car and run the pump empty? Or is there a way to run it with fluid to keep it working and just plug the output on it?
no you dont want to do that.. after i put my adapter on; i found a v pulley and bracket off a 83 mustang and found a smaller belt at a thrift store and made a few mods to get it lined up and thats that.
