Engine & Trans Removal questions

Hi guys,

I've been working on this car for the past ten years and I am still a novice at so much. Had it running well, then the the trans started leaking pretty bad. I've never pulled an engine and need to rebuild the trans and bottom end of the 302. The trans and bottom end have never been worked on or pulled before. That said, does the air conditioner condenser and wall highlighted below come out easily?

Would like to pull the engine and trans together if possible...but if these piece does not come out I think it may be easier to do the engine by itself at first.

Thoughts for a first time engine puller? Thanks

 

that piece isn't removable.after removing rad and condenser motor and trans will come out togrther.
tape up the tailshaft on the trans to keep from making an oil slick.

 

The core support you have circled is not a bolt on piece, but you can remove the engine and trans together. It may be helpful to have the front of the car on ramps so that the trans can angle downward without hitting the ground. You will probably want to use a load leveler with the hoist. It will allow you to angle the engine and trans as it is lifted out. Remove the radiator and trans lines. Remove the belly bar under the oil pan, and lower the steering by unbolting the idler arm from the frame. I am sure others who have done this more recently can give more helpful hints.

 

As Jason said it can be pulled out in one piece. I normally have the car on jack stands and the back wheels blocked. You will need to remove the drive shaft and then get a transmission plug, you can pick them up from most autoparts stores. Removing the accessories such as the alternator, AC, PS, fan, etc... will help you out. Make sure to have all of the wires discounted from the engine including any ground straps. I also remove the Radiator and AC condenser. If this is your first time doing this it is also advisable to remove the grill so you don't break it.... For your first time you will want to have one other person help you, unbolt the frame mounts from the motor mounts and unbolt the transmission from the crossmember. Put a small jack on the transmission (I will throw it on the pan with padding or a block of wood to distribute the load) and then lower the crossmember. Also make sure to have the speedometer cable and shift linkage disconnected. Have a chain with leveler bolted to the front and back of the motor, I normally put my bolts in the heads. Slowly put tension on the engine and have someone under the car helping to make sure it does not catch. It is going to have to go at a pretty steep angle to clear the front core support. As you raise it up pull back on the hoist and slowly pull it backwards. When the transmission is in the engine bay you can start to level it out more and have your helper grab the tail and raise it up. This is not a hard job but it is not a fast job if you are new at it... You do not have to remove the steering or belly bar if you do not want to, I have pulled engines with them in place before. Hope this helps. Make sure to label where everything goes and to pull your carb off before you pull the engine.

 

Thanks everyone, this is great advice. Going to try and pull her out over the next week.

 

To add to William's list, remove the crankshaft pulley as well, gives you another four inches give or take.

 

Good call. I forgot to throw that on there.

 

Made a little bit of progress, fuel, electrical, headers.... feel like it's going to have plenty of room.
Pulley's next! What I am dreading is that once this is all out... I should really fix the rusted cowls. What a snowball.

 

Wait until you have the patch panels before you start cutting. But no better time then while the engine is out.

 

As this is the original trans with 65K miles on it...has never been worked on. Does it make sense to rebuild or just replace.

Trans shop wants $600 to rebuild it....a new Hughes Performance C4 is $1,200 from the local speed shop. What do most folks do? Any feedback on the Hughes Performance trans?

At the rate I am going, I am probably going to put new heads, cam and upgrade the bottom end so want something that can handle ~350 hp?

What I have done thus far is new Edelbrock performer intake with 600 cfm carb, Petronix coil and distrib, Doug's shorty headers, dual exhaust, power master alt, Borgeson steering pump, disc conversion in the front.

The cowls are rusted out so need to fix that and a floor pan. I am in snowball city, but it's fun.

 

For that amount of power, the orig C4 will puke within a month.

 

Thinking I'll end up with Edelbrock heads and cam... that said, what trans recommendations should I be considering?

What's the general limit on a C4 trans?

 

Stock, maybe 250-275 Hp, a mild performance rebuild can easily handle 400.

 

C4's can be built to handle more than a 302 could typically produce. For a stock unit I think Tom is in the ballpark. I wanted one that could handle 300 - 350hp without question. I had a local place do it (local means within a 2 hour drive). They are a smaller shop but the owner concentrates on performance Ford transmissions. He builds each one personally so it may take longer than larger shops but you will get one that is like a tailored suit. Their site is https://www.broaderperformance.com.

 

Since you have engine & trans out -- now is the time to do the trans rebuild regardless of what future power application.