Hey, I don't want to steel this thread, but I have a question that relates to it. In my search for a Maverick, I always felt one "without" the molding was a plus for me, because of course a Stallion doesn't have it, and removing it would be one less thing I would have to deal with. However, before I won this car on eBay, I actually stopped at the owners and looked it over. It has the side molding, so I "expected" to see the mechanical fastners on the rear fenders when I looked in the trunk (I should see some, shouldn't I?). However, there wasn't any, so I was wondering if in the later years of the Mavericks life (this is a 76 model) did they switch to the adhesive backed style body side molding? I hope so, then I won't have to deal with filling in those holes! If anyone knows if Ford switched to the adhesive style molding, let me know! Thanks! Art
dan, the front fenders are off a parts car that i sold and the kid is driving it as a daily driver.(sold it way too cheap). the holes i did were done about (6) months ago and still look great...frank...
Unless they are aftermarket I doubt they are adhesive backed ... Edit: I just looked at the pictures of you car ... it does appear to be aftermarket so you have probably lucked out. The factory trim is chrome with a black insert ...
Cool! Your right, I don't believe it has the "black" in the middle. I wasn't sure till actually "saw" the car that it had the molding (the photos aren't the best), but then I thought it was a factory installition. When I looked in the trunk, I was happy to "NOT" see the posts/nuts poking through. I have seen some 77 mavericks with molding "just" inbetween the front and rear wheel wells and again wondered if it came from the factory like that (again, it looked like the adhesive backed type). Could have easily been after market though. Hey, good luck filling those holes, so far I have been impressed with your results in many areas! Thanks for giving all of us the benifit of your experience and knowledge! Art
I think JB Weld is a lot "juicier" than the stuff that Frank and I used ... Wonder how he managed to keep it from running right through the hole ...
FYI ... just heard back from the guy that fixed the rust holes in his 1957 Ranchero using PC-7 in 2001. Said the repairs still look great ... he was afraid the vibrations may knock the PC-7 loose but he said it's still holding strong ...
Now that you mention it, he did say he had to put a small piece of sheet metal on the inside of the hole (which was easily accesible on his particlular application - strut towers on a Fox Mustang - those things look like Swiss Cheese from the factory). He probably did multiple applications I'm guessing too.
i wonder if that could be used on my floorboards, i have extra holes where i had a different set of seats in the car? think it would would?
How big are the holes? The trim holes are maybe 3/16 or 1/4 inch at the most ... I don't see why it wouldn't work since you can leave it on thick and cover it with the carpet. Maybe lay a small piece of screen over the hole for reinforcement ... I bought the PC-7 at Ace Hardware ..
i would lean towards the welding in process, but i must admit to going with fiberglass filler for the trim from when i had vinyl. It was suggested by my friend who does body to dimple the hole, and insert the head of a stainless screw(flat top) then glass it in. the screw head should be big enough to catch the sides of the hole so the glass is working like a glue to hold it in place and fill in the now small spaces.
Doug, if you have success with the epoxy fill I say that is great but I doubt it will last longer then a year or so before it starts cracking. Rent the wire feed and get a block of brass approx 1" x 4' put that behind your hole that you will weld and fill from the center out. When you are done just "pop" the bress block off and it will be done less the light finish grinding and filler for the scratches, for the polishing of the metal before you weld I highly recommend the emery (sp?) cloth wheel that goes on a 4" grinder That is my 2 cents it has worked for me for 20 years
It's Dan ... not Doug ... It will be at least a year before a real paint job so we'll see how they hold up. I finished up the drivers side tonight. I also fixed two door dings. Tomorrow I'll fix a slightly crumpled rocker that I had previously beat out. Once the entire drivers side is smooth I'll spray the rattle cans and see how it comes out ...
