Finnish project that never seems to finish

Discussion in 'Maverick/Comet Projects' started by garagektc, Jul 28, 2014.

  1. garagektc

    garagektc Member

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    I'm using Canton pan that I had in my Fox3. It is Mustang style double sump thing. Small front sump is quite close to steering rack&pinion assy, just some half inch behind. I realized that pan is squeezed in between the R&C MII crossmember and steering that I might not be able to open the front sump drain bolt. I just hope that solving that issue is not the one pushing me over edge with this project :disagree: Still the rear sump is just barely below the crossmember so engine sits quite low.
    I looked the position of your engine and yes, it is quite forward. Still I don't think it is causing too severe handling issues? You can always go for multi grand dry sump system and move the engine to lurk inside the glovebox... But that would mean cutting a lot.
    I had a surprise moment during the first engine fitting. I realized that to be able to remove valve covers from engine without removing it, I needed to cut way more than I thought and actually hoped to do.
     
  2. garagektc

    garagektc Member

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    Mav has been on hold for a while, too many other things have messed up my calendar. Looking forward to get hands on the main project before and during Christmas. Hopefully new year brings new energy for the project.
     
  3. mav1970

    mav1970 Bob Hatcher

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    That is exactly what I hope for also since I have only worked on my car 2 days this past year - I'll wait for warmer weather so I can get back to building my car while listening to my Nightwish and Wintersun CD's :tiphat:
     
  4. garagektc

    garagektc Member

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    Christmas and New Year went by mostly with snowing, plowing,temperatures going above zero,snow crashing down from the roof right in front of garage doors,plowing,snowing...aaaargh.

    But I had something done still. Firewall modifications are about ready for the bellhousing area. I removed engine/trans for getting better reach for welding (and to avoid hitting them accidentally with angle grinder...). Next step is to make front floors and center section from firewall to gearbox crossmember.

    Multitool with cutting, bending, rolling options starts to get useful.

    I also bended the main hoop for the rollcage. Always a funny job with non-hydraulic tube bender. Diagonal bar is fully welded in place. Main hoop and rear bars are tag welded in place, waiting for my friend the pro welder. Kind of a makes me sleep better to know that at least the rollcage is welded by someone who knows what he is doing...

    Got money from parents as Christmas present, for buying clean air helmet. Kemppi Beta 90 Fresh Air with Flow control package is the one I got and after using it the first time I thought why haven't I got it earlier. Better late than never to start to care for lungs, I only have one pair of those. Thanks Mom and Dad, I wouldn't be here without your effort years ago :)

    Will take a picture when rear section of the rollcage is fully welded. Oh, one thing that I started to do are air vents on the roof. These are multirole holes, first they ease the welding of the rollcage connections that are close to the roof and then they will help to flow air through the cabin. Haven't decided the styling of the "scoops" on the roof yet. Maybe something simple and easy to make since they will propably be homemade...
     
  5. mav1970

    mav1970 Bob Hatcher

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    Looking forward to seeing pictures of your progress :)
     
  6. garagektc

    garagektc Member

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    Garagetime yesterday after a long time of wasting time somewhere else. Had to lift engine/trans cores in place because a friend was visiting sunday. He writes articles to V8 Magazine and wanted to take some project pictures. I had a happy face when realizing that engine did still fit in it's place after finishing the firewall... Since there is now sheetmetal from firewall to gearbox crossmember, I plan to cut the rear section of the tunnel away and make a new one. Maybe make some reinforcement crossmember first in place to attach driveshaft loop. Then it would be time to remove big piece of passenger floor and remake it. That way I could get rid of all the strange holes and small repair patches all over. Bulges on Maverick floor add nice challenge since flooring should remain at least somehow original looks. I think that we might have to read the rulebook from different angle for drivers side floor to be able to fit seat mounts in correct position. Should not be a problem since I have looked few cars on the series we are planning to participate and well, they are not actually very original to say the least.
    Somewhere in between US and Finland are also new steering shaft, rear brakes, locker, axle ends to convert 8.8" for 9" shafts... Waiting to have steering installed to see if there will be header headache or not. Planning to make 4-2-1 type headers since 5.0 firing order allows at least some pulse-balancing quite easily. Luckily there is still about an acre of sheetmetal work to do so I don't have to wait for the parts :)
     
    mavgrab302 likes this.
  7. garagektc

    garagektc Member

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    Some photos of the tunnel and engine bay/ firewall changes. Still some finishing touches for the tunnel to be made and also have to make service cover to cover the hole on top. That opening makes access to bellhousing bolts quite a lot easier. Also have to enlarge the shifter hole towards rear so the trans can be pulled back enough to drop it out not if but when it causes problems (still going with T5 plan...).
    Parts container arrived also so I think I'll start April with test fitting the steering assembly. Naturally adapting Fox3 steering from wheel to rack will not be a bolt on but hey, it seems that there is no bolt-on thing with this project :whistle:
    I wish a spring project motivation boost to everybody!!
    Mav-front.jpg mav-tunnel.jpg
     
  8. garagektc

    garagektc Member

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    Started to fit headers during the weekend. I found some Mustang 70's headers for 351C from my stock and at first it seemed that they would be throw-in except for the rearmost tubes. Well, I think we all know that things usually aren't going the way they seem at first :disagree: And what was I thinking, headers made for Mustang with 351C would fit like bolt-on into Maverick with lowered 302 Clevor...idiot :coco: Of course they hit everything and also come quite close to the ground.
    So after few moments of thinking and planning I took some tools in hand and started to cut. There will be individual tubes for each cylinder going to slip-on collector. Cutting, cutting and cutting, but at least only 2 pipes needed to be cut from the flange so this is still easier way than starting from scratch.
    Oh yes, I remembered to put starter in place too so there should not be any humungous surprises during final assembly...
    Looking forward to get them tag welded this week except I don't have the collectors. Well, luckily there are still some small things to do with this project during the waiting of the parts.
     
  9. tody

    tody Member

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    pictures, please :D
     
  10. mav1970

    mav1970 Bob Hatcher

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    I used Hooker Super Comp headers made for a 70 Mustang on my Cleveland but my engine sits slightly more forward and a bit higher than stock because of the notch in the Canton pan getting close to the top of the Mustang II cradle and the rack - the driver's side header fit right in place like it was made for the combo - the passenger side header was a much different story - rear tube hit the firewall so I built a small foot box so the tube would clear - the rest of the tubes got into the inside of the passenger frame rail so I notched the frame back in about 2 inches - once I box it in, it should be as strong as stock - nothing's easy :huh:
     
  11. garagektc

    garagektc Member

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    Always nice to pick up new parts. Funny thing with Wilwood rear brakes though, other disc is black, other is clear. Hmmm, I sent a question to Wilwood, let's see if they bother to reply. Steering shaft from Maximum Motorsports premium as excepted. And tools for rear end welding, well, heavy...
    So today I started to test fit steering parts. Seems that I'll go with Maverick column support and attach Fox3 steering column to it. One bolt even fits straight on and other after drilling just one hole :bananaman: Then it should be just doing some attachment welded to firewall and voila, steering done. Well, sounds too easy so let's see how things will go, when it's time to realize that I need to fit 3 pedals too...

    Also started to fit seats in. Test sitting the co-pilot seat convinced me that I would rather be sitting in the driver's seat. It's going to be noisy, hot and not very comfortable ride when strapped into that Kirkey piece of foil...
     
  12. garagektc

    garagektc Member

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  13. schroensr

    schroensr knight Runner

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    Very nice work. Can't wait to see more. :thumbs2:
     
  14. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    Agreed, pictures!!!
     
  15. groberts101

    groberts101 Member

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    I missed this one. Very nicely executed and well engineered mod's. I also dig your humor and "wordy'ness" since I often write novels around here too on occasion. :D

    The engine setback is especially interesting to me and very well executed as well. I'm planning in at least 8" inches of setback and hope to squeeze maybe even upwards of 10" inches if possible. My front seats will go rearwards, steering column will be extended, since rear passengers will not be the norm and we'll just have to squish in and make do with the room we have left in the cabin.

    BTW, there is another member here who sent me pic's of his major engine setback(10" inches if my memory serves). I can try to find them and post if you're interested in seeing them too. That's a 460 based powerplant and fully tubed front end as you'd expect would be required.

    Looking forward to seeing your progress.. good luck with everything till the next pic's get posted around here. :cheers2:
     

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