Front Disc Swap Brake Hard Lines & Proportioning Valve Questions

I appreciated your suggestion but had come to far and was determined to win. I ended up cutting and splicing some jumpers in. I was very luck to be able to straighten the existing lines just enough to cut and re-flare them.

 

Without seeing it, it's hard to visualize what you did. If you were to buy a new set of front lines for a '74 Maverick/Comet, they bolt right in and fit your original junction block. then from the junction block to the master cylinder, only one of the short lines needs to have the correct fitting for the master cylinder put on. If you experience excessive rear wheel lock-up, you can always plumb in an adjustable proportioning valve. I have one but never needed to install it.
I learned the hard way on My Maverick, so when I did it on a friend's '73, it was a breeze...

EDIT: After seeing the picture of your new brakes in your other thread, I see that the '74 and later front lines would be too long. The factory calipers are mounted toward the rear and yours are mounted toward the front, so the flex hoses come from the rear like the drum brakes had. What I stated above still applies on the other end for the junction block and M/C...

 

You mentioned using the 'original drum valve bracket to mount the valve', so you removed the bracket from the original block and attached it to the new block? How did you do that? I have a 72 and putting the discs from a 74 on it. I would like to remove the mounting bracket from the 'valve' and flip the valve so the ports better align with the front and rear brake lines. Just not sure it is possible to remove the bracket and still be able to reattach it.

 

That is exactly why I used the drum valve bracket, so it could be clocked 90 degrees and the ports matched up better. The bracket has a large rectangular hole. The brass valve has a raised rectangular section that the bracket mates to, and then the brass is swedged to hold the bracket. I used a thick slot screwdriver and hammer to push the swedged brass back towards the center. It took awhile but once the bracket began to loosen I was able to pop it off, and work the swedged brass more to it's original shape to fit the bracket. When the two pieces mated I used a ball peen hammer to swedge the brass again. The important thing is not remove any brass from the valve, as you will need it to mushroom against the other bracket. It was tedious, but oddly satisfying when done.

 

why do people think its ok to just "make do" with the brake system? do everyone a favor and just do the brakes the right way the first time..... cut this,flair that...... put a new line in with the right size line and correct nuts for your app.