I think it might be OK for the low speed. Still haven't decided what I'm gonna do. Wish I had seen this http://www.hollisterroad.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MarkVIII before I bought the Flex-a-Lite controller.
I think for the 60bucks I wud just go w/ this kit and not worry w/ the hassles of figuring out wiring and/or adapting the Volvo setup. You may be able get rid of the Flex-a-Lite at a swap meet or some other way.
You might be right. I just hate it when I buy something and then change my mind and buy an alternative. Already did that with the fuel tank when I learned about the Mustang alternative.
this is just 3 relays wired up to control the two speeds. there are two ways that it could be wired. it would be very simple to do. i suspect they are useing one realy for the low speed and two relays in parallel for the high speed to handle the higher amperage. you use the first realy to switch on the circut when the low speed temp is reached. then you use the second two realys in parellel to switch from low speed to high speed when the high temp is reached. i dont think they are including the sensors. if they do then its worth buying that kit if not then thats pretty expensive for 3 relays and sockets.
Jim Don't feel bad about buying one thing then changing your mind . I had a freind of mine who had a model A 32 ford 2door . This dumb a$$ bought 32 steel fenders for this car and just could not find a set fenders he liked. Jay
It looks like its $120 for relays, harness, A/C option and two temp switches. You could also pin it out from the photo to verify how they implemented it. The colored wire should make it easy. You could do 3 weatherproof relays and sockets for around $35. Sounds like the club needs a comparative op-amp module to use on a factory temp sensor to control some relays, since the temp sensors are the most expensive part (~ $30 each ?).
You should never wire relays in parallel to control a large load. Mechanical relays do not switch at the same speed, one will always close faster than the other. During the time that just one relay is closed it is handling the full load current plus any surge current that the load might cause.
Jay, Somehow I missed this post earlier. I won't need it till after the holidays. Not going to install the Taurus fan till after I get back from the NPD show in January. If you can get one and ship it to me for about $20 I'll add it to my collection of options. I appreciate the offer. :Handshake Jim
For what it's worth, I'm running a 95 grand marquis/crown vic single speed condenser fan that I wired to come on with the ac demand and at 196 deg F via a Honda Accord fan switch(Wells #SW504) in the thermostat housing. I also wired a manual over ride just in case. A standard 30amp Bosch relay is what has been switching this thing on for about 10 yrs and it never overheats even with the air on. Still running the factory 3row copper/brass 302/ac radiator. Yet another option. lots of good info in this thread
Jim No I have been very busy with my aging mom & dad . I still need to go to the junk yard for you and my bud in az. I should have more time next month . No Paypal here Jay
Don't worry about it. I'm going to try the controller I bought before I received all the good advice. Only if I have a problem will I'll be looking for a Volvo controller.
Thought someone might be interested in how this is all working out. I have a 302, 195* thermostat, Champion 3-row radiator, Taurus fan, Flex-a-lite controller (bought before the advice to use the Volvo controller), and Classic Auto Air underhood AC kit with Sanden compressor and new serial condenser built for the Maverick. So far I have only wired up the low speed on the fan. Thought I'd see if that is adequate and only add the 80 amp, high speed circuit if its needed. If I need the high speed, I'll add another relay, sensor and circuit to switch from low speed to high speed. I'm hoping the Flex-a-lite controller, fused at 20A, will be adequate for the low speed. The temp sensor probe for the controller is stuck in the radiator fins just below the top hose. The adjustable switch is set to turn the fan on at about 30% of the way min-to-max. So far, I've only been able to test the system in 65* weather. Real test will come when temp gets up around 100*. Results are encouraging in the cool weather. Idleing with AC off, I guess the fan runs for about 5 sec about every 30 sec. Idleing with AC on, the fan never runs unless its switched on by the compressor circuit. Fan turns off as soon as the compressor turns off and doesn't come on until the compressor starts up again. The lower radiator hose is just warm, never too hot to hold your hand on it. So far so good.
