GrabberGT Ev. 5

After some thinking, I agree that the gearing is prob just about right for 1/8 mile. Id be at the top of 3rd gear going thru the traps.

The issue with the clutch is the engagement point. It starts to come in a little over an inch off the floor but it doesnt fully engage until its almost all the way to the top of the pedal stroke. And when using a factory pedal, thats a long way.

Im pretty sure a harder launch would have helped with my bogging issue. Its just a matter of finding the right RPM without going to crazy with it.

I ran the tank as dry as I dared last night and will begin the EFI swap this week. Hopefully the car will be back on the road in a weeks time.

 

Alright. EFI is on its way. Installed the throttle-body and started on the electrical connections yesterday. Of course nothing can be straight forward for me though. I need to find a way to have a 2nd Engine Temp Sensor installed. My port on the intake manifold is already in use by my electric temp gauge. Issue 2, My drop base air cleaner no longer fits. I'll have to mod this one to make it work or buy new. Issue 3, can I run a dead-head fuel line settup to the throttle-body. This will allow me to mount the fuel regulator back by the tank and keep my fuel return line short.

 

Heres what my 5 grand clutch dump looks like,lots of wheelspin.Car had the best 60' of the day leaving at 3500.http://www.youtube.com/user/derek5ocomet?blend=12&ob=5#p/a/u/1/aANOKRxYLME
1.77 60'
8.12 1/8 @84mph
12.82 1/4 @103

 

you should be able to run the dead head system that your asking about. you will need to run a vacuum line to the rear of the car.

 

Thanks. Per the instructions though, the vacuum line is only needed for boosted applications. So I'll be capping that off.

If anyone finds a need for a seconds water temp sensor mounting location, you can get a Thermostat Housing (Water Outlet) #84831 or 605-1056 from NAPA. It has a threaded port for a sensor.

 

Rear ballast has now been added. I should not be 50/50 front-rear. With a little ride height tuning at the corners I'll also be 50/50 diagonally.

I've got a lot of cleaning up to do back there.

 

The EFI is on and running but still needs some tweaking. I've found that the fuel pressure is a little low at 40psi but should be easily adjusted. Then its just drive, drive, drive. Even with the lower fuel pressure, I can already feel a major improvement in power. Instead of the strong surge from 4500 rpm I had with the carb before, that power is now distributed more evenly from 2000. I prob need to play with the timing some more. With my pulley setup, its almost impossible to get a light on it. If I had a TFI distributer, I could control the timing from the ECU. Next weekend its back to the autocross to see how the changes work out.

 

I never made it to the autocross. I ended up with a cold and couldnt go. I did however increase my fuel pressure to 47ish which made a HUGE difference. Its like a new car now. I have unfortuantely uncovered a new problem. When driving the car for a longer period of time, I'll start to lose fuel pressure. I think its the pump over heating. Im not sure how to fix it without going to an internal fuel pump. I'll have to play around with it some but its hard to find the time for a longer drive to experience the issue.

 

Having a cold sucks for sure.
Could it be a vent issue?

 

Gas cap is vented but will pull the cap next time I have significant pressure drop to make sure. I'll also take a temp reading of the pump at the same time.

 

Just thought I'd chime in here regarding weight reduction. Have you considered buying fiberglass fenders? theres a couple companys out there that make them. They also do bumpers, hoods, doors, etc.

http://www.usbody.com/

and

http://www.up22.com/amx68.htm (I know it says AMX but you just have to scroll down a bit)

I've never used these company's so I don't know how well the fit but just a thought.

 

Both companies are crap according to folks that have tried their parts. Do a search on this forum using their names and you'll find numerous threads about them. I dont remember reading anything good yet.

 

I'm not sure you would save much weight on the fenders. I just took them off to fix the cowl and they don't weigh much at all. The hood on the other hand, is heavy as hell! A Maverickman carbon fiber would be nice!

On the fuel pressure issue, any chance there is trash clogging the inlet filter? That would take a while to collect on the sock enough to cause a restriction and could fall away when you shut it off.:16suspect

 

We have discussed fiberglass body parts on the board in other threads, and here is my take on it ... easier to save weight elsewhere.

As mentioned, Mav fenders are light. The hood is not that heavy either. I jumped on a scale with my Comet hood once, and it came in right at 50 lbs. A fiberglass hood that is built strong enough to survive street use and attach to the hinges weigh 30, so there is a potential 20 lb savings there.

If you go from a steel intake manifold to aluminum, you will typically save about 40 lbs (I did on my 351 ... 302 might be a little less).

With heads and manifolds, going to aluminum saves weight and gains performance, so I see the $$$s going further.

Carbon fiber hoods should increase that margin of weight-savings. I guess it all boils down to where does it make sense to spend the money first.

BTW, these cars tend to be nose-heavy, so that is where I would concentrate on lightening them or moving weight back if possible. I would rather see balance than getting a car to be featherweight.

Then, if you want to go faster, just build more power ....

 

I've got the balance pretty much set. Its within a couple turns of the coil adjusters to getting front to rear 50/50 and diag 50/50. I can get more power out of the motor with heads and cam but do I really need it. When I originally started the weight reduction discussion, I was just trying to "keep up with the Jones's" you might say. All the top built Pro-Touring cars are LSX monster Camaros putting 500+hp down to the rear wheels in a car weighing 3500lbs or less. Since then I've come to realize that these are the unlimited builds from people chasing the ultimate in performance with more power than they need. So it really comes down to how much power can I use. From MASHORIs thread on the DART block build, I've decided that I no longer NEED that 500 to the rear but a solid usable 400+ with the torque curve in the right place would be ideal. Turbos and blowers all add weight and and are really overkill for a street cruiser/autocross car. I'll try and manage the weight where I can within reason. Fenders are out. Hood and deck lick are an option. I recently removed my torsion bar from the trunk lid and was SHOCKED at how heavy that thing is. I'd say its as heavy as the hood if not heavier. most of the cars weight is down low tied to the suspension which is not really too bad of a place to be. It keeps the center of gravity low. I've got a great start on a performance car and need to now focus on the tuning of what I have and the driver. Later on I can start taking weight out and or adding power but like I said. Its already balanced and just needs some tuning.

Im afraid to reread what I just wrote because Im sure I just rambled but... oh well.

Happy Thanksgiving folks and thanks for checking in. You input is always appreciated.