you can see how bad the other side is this is what they looked like before I started driving on them.
i talked to varishock about this. the two pieces you can see that appear bent are screwed together with a piece of all thread. the tech at varishock said that if you over tighten the two pieces beyond finger tight, you will tension on the all thread and it will snap.
I for one am not likeing the piece called "all thread". I have used all thread and it does not "carry" a load no matter how tight. Now there may be a hardened type all thread they have supplied but all I am hearing at this time is "all thread". That stuff is maluable or soft.
Here is the only decent side picture I can find right now (use to be expensive to buy film, and have it developed) Anyways, this is around 20 years ago, it's kinda tough to see the headers, but I've still got them, and the have the battle scars to prove how low they were.
I would call that a "Design Flaw".............and finger tight..............I think not. That piece should be a solid one piece............anyone close that has a lathe............or you could contact ARP and find the right stud with same threads on both ends.................that is an accident waiting to happen..IMHO
That depends on how much the engine is raised. If he lowered the car then raised the engine, those two things would tend to cancel out each other. And a really good driver should be able to adapt to changes in the car. As for the driveline angle changes, that too can be adjusted after moving the engine, just as it should be after lowering the car.
You hit the nail on the head. It takes a lot of practice on a road coarse to become a good driver...............especially when there are 30 or more other drivers out there..............at least in the SSC the nearest car is 10/15 minutes infront and behind you.................so you are racing yourself. As long as you don't get over 5/7 degrees it should be fine..............In a purpose built road race car (rear wheel drive) you try and have the top of the spindle/A arm about at the crankshaft center line or a little above.....................the reason most purpose built racers use dry sumps.........................IMHO
If you think your headers hang down to far..................this is what the drivers side looks like on mine.......................I have to be very carefull going up into the trailer or they will drag.
I have so many issues with the headers hitting stuff, I have debated adding skid plates. They don't hang as low as Olerodders' tho. I have already raised the front after destroying the previous set of headers. Another option might be to carry the subframe connectors all the way to the torque boxes so they hit instead of the headers. That shock mount scares me. Those were actually on my list but I am very curious about why that happened.
would it be possible to take a set of hooker 6901's and cut them and redo them a little so that the collector sits a little further up closer to the body? I drew a line (Line A) that runs through the plane of the collector ....and I'm thinking maybe moving it up to Line B...
It's not that simple with the various angles of the tubes involved. With your money and the engine you're contemplating, you'd do well building a custom set of headers.
I agree - the rest of the coil over assembly looks to be so nicely designed and machined, I can't understand where a piece of allthread was chosen to be used anywhere in this
Really nice products Here's a link to their home page to see what all they have http://www.spdexhaust.com/
Cutting the headers and trying to redo them will take about the time than just building a custom set of headers...........Why don't you just bring the car up North................we will take it to Chris Hill's(SPD), and make some headers that will fit the car without hanging so low? What Baddad457 said is true..............I've done this a few times and both times just gave up and built my own complete system...........it is a lot easier and takes about the same time..................plus you lessen all of the frustration. If you were to take it someplace to have this done I would guess it would cost between $500/800.............and a complete set of custom made to fit would only be another $500/800..................and if you could get Chris to make the jigs................maybe you could both work a deal to share in the sales of the new headers..................although I doubt they would be a lost alternative like the "off the shelf Hookers". How long does it take you to take the headers off the car or put them on? Now with that said, I think if you just cut the collectors off, put some band clamps on.................this will last you until you make your next motor, since you will need custom headers for that anyway..................IMHO
