Hello Pinto haters !

Discussion in 'New Members Forum' started by Reeves1, Jan 7, 2011.

  1. rayzorsharp

    rayzorsharp I "AM" a Maverick!

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    Ah yes...the Prince!!! I miss him!!! :yup:
     
  2. Reeves1

    Reeves1 Member

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    Kits I used I think were made by Herbert & Moody ?
    All I can rememer in the kit was the metal motor mounts that go on the frame rails. Also the "spider" headers.
    Rubber mounts were bought at a Ford dealer. In the kit instructions it listed the part number ?
    I do not remember what I did for the trans mount.

    I have been in touch with Herbert & moody. No kits any more.
    I went through the Hooker site & didn't find anything listed. I sent them an e-mail & no answer.

    Odds are, there are kits siting on a shelf someplace. Main thing I'll need will be headers. Problem is, I'll be using a Boss 302 this time. I don't think any kit had them for a Boss engine. So I'll likely go custom ?

    Motor mounts etc I can fab. I've built much more complicated things.
     
  3. mav1970

    mav1970 Bob Hatcher

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    I used an aluminum front engine plate sold by Campbell Enterprises to put the Cleveland in my Maverick.

    Makes a whole lot more room for the headers too (y)
     
  4. rayzorsharp

    rayzorsharp I "AM" a Maverick!

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    I've never driven a car with an engine plate. Doesn't that cause a lot of vibration??? I can see it on a drag car but not so sure about a street car.
     
  5. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

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    You can put rubber insulators between the engine plate and the frame to help with vibration.
     
  6. mav1970

    mav1970 Bob Hatcher

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    I wanted to use rubber biscuits on my engine plate but I talked to my engine builder and Campbell Enterprises and they both told me the same thing - keep the front plate solid but absolutely use the stock rubber transmission mount.

    I'll determine if that was the right answer or not once I get the car moving on down the road :huh:
     
  7. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

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    Did they give a reason for keeping the front solid?
     
  8. mav1970

    mav1970 Bob Hatcher

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    It's been so long since I asked, I really don't remember what the reason was. I'll shoot Campbell an email and ask them to explain it more in detail.:)
     
  9. PAINTANK

    PAINTANK Cometosis Obsessivus

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    I really like that Pinto!
     
  10. Reeves1

    Reeves1 Member

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    The Blue one on page 1 ?
    Thanks !

    It turned out much better than the first one !
    I picked up a junk (test) one so I would regret making a mess of one.

    Only have a couple pictures of the first one. This picture shows the headers.

    [​IMG]

    I'll see if I can find pictures of one I like now.....
     
  11. Reeves1

    Reeves1 Member

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  12. spxer

    spxer Member

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    i 302'd my pinto and used mustang II headers with a little hammer work . Not bad for about 100 bucks when i was working at a parts store.
     
  13. mav1970

    mav1970 Bob Hatcher

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    Barry, I contacted Campbell Enterprises to ask that question again and got their reply today.

    In case anyone is thinking about using a front engine plate and wondering if they need to mount it in rubber or solid, their response is copy & pasted below:


    Hello Bob,

    Your car is looking great! A very nice, clean installation.

    Yes, we suggested that you mount the plate solid, but use a rubber or polyurethane trans mount and that is still our recommendation.

    It does NOT have to be mounted solid, it could be mounted with some type of rubber isolation, but there is really no reason to go to all that trouble these days. Unless an engine is assembled way out of balance, it is not going to induce any significant motion into the chassis, other than a bit or rotation when you nail the throttle, which rubber would also do once the amount of movement they allow is exceeded.

    So, if someone does want to isolate the motor mount set up with rubber, they certainly can, but I see no reason to do so. Most of those old myths about having to mount in rubber are from when you had engines not properly balanced and big cams with ignitions and fuel systems that mis-fired at lot at lower rpm, leading to vibration.

    If someone does mount in rubber, it needs to be very strong to resist tearing and movement. For example, you need to make sure the engine does not move enough to allow the fan to contact the fan shroud if using an engine driven fan.

    So, in closing, the front mount does not have to be mounted solid, but it makes for a simpler, more dependable installation, with no real downside these days. And just so you will know, I have owned many a street driven car with the engine mounted solid and have never had a problem or been bothered by the solid mount in any way.

    I hope this helps you.

    Best regards,

    Marshall
     
  14. mav1970

    mav1970 Bob Hatcher

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    Now that's the "spider" headers that I remember. I always wondered what kind of drugs someone had to be on to come up with that funky design :biglaugh:
     
  15. Reeves1

    Reeves1 Member

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    It was the 70s.....what can I say ? :D

    They did build them for the space in there. Much more on the sides & front than by the motor mounts , starter etc.
     

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