LOL yeah, she is great!! As long as I clean up the mess,,, she dont mind. I will look into the egr plate,,,,, I plugged the hole in the lower intake, so nothing passes thru,,,, only the electrical is hooked up, no vaccum to operate it,,, so it stays closed,,, I need the extra room to put on a good air filter,,, and I am thinking of putting in a 2 inch spacer inbetween the upper and lower intake so I can then put back on the stock shock tower braces,,, after that, its cowl induction for the hood,,,, Chad
One trait of a "good un", is a wife that has patience with the antics we sometimes pull. I have a 1 inch "phenominal" spacer (phenolic) to fit a Holley Systemax II intake I could make you a heckuva deal on. Seen HERE. I wouldn't know where to look for a 2" (unless you stack two 1" ers up). It has the rectangular (Trick Flow type) ports, btw. I'm not sure off the top of my head which intake you're using - it's that "Some Timers" disease thing.
45 lbs I pulled all the connectors on the wiring harness today and cleaned them. They didn't show any problem, but I cleaned them out anyway. I tried a different coil today, no change. I tried a different module, no change. I backed off the ignition timing, no change. I added timing, had more power, but no change on the miss. Currently, timing is back at factory spec... The engine is running worse all the time as far as the miss goes. Was intermittent for a month. As of today, it is constant... except at idle. So.... disconnecting plug wires or injector wires tells me nothing, because the miss is only under load. Can anyone tell me what the deal was with the rear 2 spark plugs? The big white glob/knot on the side of the insulator??? I was told today that the spark may be leaking from a crack in the insulator to the inside of the plug... I have never had a cracked insulator on one plug, much less 2 at one time. It's also funny that the 2 plugs in question are in the cylinders with the highest compression. I suppose my next move is to try a different o2 sensor. I have the stuff to check the ohms and such on the injectors, but I have a feeling the intake upper will have to come off for that. Therefore I am exhausting every other option.
Btw: Sorry for hijacking the thread! I really appreciate you guys putting up with it and throwing out your ideas! With new ideas to check, at least I am keeping busy with it, even if they don't pan out. Thanks!
From the "what it's worth" department, Dave, the camshaft sensor is only $15 bux at Vato Zone. Is it worth $15 and a little time to eliminate that possibility? Maybe, at some point. Good luck.
I don't think this has a CPS... Does it???? I have yet to find a listing for one in parts books. The previous post about the Tbird needing one got my attention, so I went looking for one for my truck. Didn't find one.
MAP sensor is the only part that has anything to do with engine load. it tells the computer what, or how much load is on the engine by measuring vacuum. It tells the computer to richen the mix or lean it out,,,, The vacuum hose could be collapsing,,, you could have a vacuum leak that would throw the actual vacuum pressure off, and that throws off the reading that the MAP recives.If thats the case,, it would throw the load "program" off. Only other part could be a VSS on the tranny,,,, but all that does is monitor output shaft rpm,, just helps with manual transmissions when they downshift, or push in on the clutch,,,, doubt that is it though,,,,, I dont think your truck has a Mass air flow sensor does it??? Should be a speed density computer in the trucks up to 92, since it has the big intake,,,, When an injector goes bad,,,,, all an injector is,, is a magnet switch,,,,,, power on, it opens, power off it closes,,,,, these swiches can stick,,,,, and cause a miss. Injectors wont throw a code off in the check engine light,,,,, only the EGR, IAB TPS, would really cause it to go off, other than a O2 lean or rich indication, then the light is on for sure. You can reset the computer,,,,,,, unhooking the positive cable for a half hour will put everything back to the way it was from the factory. New coil, nope, new plug and coil wires? EHHH,,, possible,,,,, But if they are in good shape,,, Im leaning towards the MAP, a bad wire, injector sticking, vacuum leak,, If its really cold outside, the injector will worsen while its cold,,,, it will warm up and get just a tad better,,, but the miss will still be there. Yeah, I know,,, them big ol intakes can be a pain to remove,,,,, and a code scan wont tell you if the injector is bad,,,, but, if you can hook it up to a diagnosis monitor that reads it while its running,,,, it will detect the misfire on the scanner,,, BUUUT,,,, dont think these computers have that kind of interaction,,,,, at least to my knowledge,, but,, Im still learning so I can be wrong. If the IGN is good, MAP is good, no vacuum leaks,,, injectors check out, Its a bad wire. If that thing has alot of miles on it,,, its very possible the harness has cooked itself and become brittle,, thats what happened to mine,,, and no, injector cleaner will not help. Its funny that they dont throw a code out when the injectors go south,,, OR,,,, the 2 big plugs,,, that go to the injector harness is shorting out,,,,, Shaking the engine while driving will make it short out,,,, and be smooth as silk at idle,,,,,, does it miss while your sitting still,, reving it up, or holding it at higher rpm??? Chad
Rick,, yeah she is the best that has ever happend to me. LOL! My wife that is not the car,,,,,, LMAO!!!! Im running the 86-88 efi ford manifold, off a 88 t-bird. I have the capabitly to make the 2 inch spacer in the shop, just take a gasket pattern, put it into a BOBCAD program and cut it out 2 ways,,,,, either a waterjet,, (you see those used on the TV show Overhaulin on TLC) or I can cut em out using a EDM wire cutter. If I do that,,, I will not use the bigger throttle body,, Ill keep the smaller one on it so the vacuum stays higher in the plentumn. Wont throw the MAP sensor off. If you got a auto tranny and running a VSS,,, you can get rid of it. dont need it. You can keep the stock speedo cable. Ever notice the little cover on the back of the computer itself??? I wonder if that is what you can hook up a scanner to?? its a slide type connector hiding in there,,,,, its either that, or thats wher they hook up to the computer to reflash a new program into it??? Gotta see whats brewing here,,,, Im trying to talk dad out of his wrecked 95 ranger,,, Im thinking EFI 351,,,,,,, AOD, or a 5 speed,,, already has the 5 speed, but nope wont work. Sounds like fun? Chad
Dang, lucky you!!! I LOVE 70-71 Torinos. The body lines are pure artwork. To me, they represent the absolute height of Ford auto design. Everything before was building up to them, everything after fell to crap with federal design regulations. Sit for a few minutes and study the body lines and how the bumpers, sport mirrors, and everything just flow into nirvana. I'm jealous. I would trade my Sprint in a heartbeat for a 70-71 Torino FB of equal condition, no matter engine or options. Sorry to the Maverick diehards, I just have a soft spot for that car. It was also my first car. Dave
Well, I suppose one could "flash" the EEC from there. The only thing I know is, that's where my Diablo Sport Chip is plugged in ("piggy-back" as it's called I believe). Good luck on the Torino. Im thinking EFI 351 too! P.S. That must be great to have all those machines at your disposal. <--NVS
I'm jealous. I would trade my Sprint in a heartbeat for a 70-71 Torino FB of equal condition, no matter engine or options. Sorry to the Maverick diehards, I just have a soft spot for that car. It was also my first car. Dave[/QUOTE] Dave,, its got a 460 in it C6 transmission. 9 inch rear. I know the floor is rough in it on the drivers side in front of the rear seat. The drivers quarter panel up by the door shows some rusty potential. Its got inscribed "FORD" in the taillights, so at night, when the lights are on, you see its a Ford really quick! Powerful,,, is an understatement for this car. Serious sideways when the go pedal is mashed. Im not gonna do anything with it,,,,, Was thinking of pulling the motor out and putting it in a truck,,,,, Ive seen worse bodies,,,,, but its all there,,,, and drivable. You want it? Chad
Is it a FB or coupe? You got pics? Are you wanting to sell it, or were you thinking about my off the cuff comment about trading? Not that I wouldn't consider it, but the Sprint is almost rust free... I'm like most folks, if I have to choose between a car with all kinds of problems, but rust free, I will choose that before a perfect car that is rusting. Dave
