hooker 6208s may be on the way

No. Never did the W thing. I had a C.

I did post some pics once, of an install, that I had saved on the PC in case I ever decided to do it.
I am pretty sure I lifted the pics from this site.
The guy did a pretty good write up and shows everything that needs clearance.
Gotta trim the engine mounts a little, grind a nub off the steering box, and grind the passenger side frame rail. I think he may have even notched and boxed the section of rail.
Check around.
He posted the pics, probably years ago now, and I rehashed them in a thread... so they are here.

If I run across them, I'll point them out. It's getting late for me now though.
Dave

 

there was a post a LONG while back about them , where he(bossmav) did mods to the car not the tubes, i seen his car the other week and he showed me a couple things , like the passenger side frame...thanks dave i thought it was a good deal for these....i wouldnt have cared if you would have got them cause i know there goin to a good home i was not goin to spend more than 350 for them and i got them for 348.99 plus 30 for shipping , i firgure if i go much more i might as well buy i new set from summit....but i won and they look brand new, i was thinking after i get them installed sent them to JET HOT or a place like that to get them nice and pretty

 

Might help with my spark plug issue on my GT40P heads...

 

i guess it could, if you were to make the sections in the right area, im not sure with the gt40Ps , are the spark plugs in a differnt angle or something?


eddie

 

Spark plugs are straight out, facing the center of the tube, closest to the tube. Almost "hemi-ish" (but only on the driver side, passenger side they miss the header completely). Main problem is on the driver side, especially #s 6&7 plugs. They are close enough to touch the pipes even with HEI 90 degree boots, and a 1/4" spacer, AND shorty header plugs.

 

yeah i thought ive herd something like that , didnt know the specs though , i bet spark plug changes are fun , prolly about as much fun as it will be for me with my windsor, i dont know if anyone here has tried 6208 with gt40p heads, cause i know the tube 1 , 2 and 5 ,6 go straight done at first almost prolly be pretty close not sure thought with 1/4 spacer, i firgure these 1 3/4 might be kinda over kill , cause im not turning over 6000, but i dont think they would hurt to much, im sure it does alot better than 1 1/2, and if i ever deiced to go big and better , which who doesnt want to

 

like I said earlier, passenger side plugs stick out almost free of the pipes. It is the driver side that is the hassle. Check out the pics on

http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=18214&highlight=GT40P

 

holy crap , that looks like a fun day to change plugs , that is crazy , is there an exact reason for that?

 

After doing it a few times, I got it down to a 45 minute job. Have to pull the header bolts half out and use a cut up socket (with a notch cut out of the side) to get the plugs out. Funny thing is I spent an afternoon making this socket, then about a year later, saw them advertised in Hot Rod, so apparently this is not an uncommon issue.

 

Too bad you didn't get yours patented 1st

 

If you made your tubes into 4 individual pieces on that side, you could just unbolt the tubes that give you trouble and swing them over to the side.
Before I got too involved doing it though, I would make sure there is somewhere for the tube to go, otherwise it is a waste.

 

Ratio, that is what I was thinking...

 

Idea:

Cut the header flange between all the pipes for best clearance.
Cut the offending tubes off at the first possible straight run.
However many tubes you cut, get the same number of i/d to i/d adapter pipes.
Weld the slip on adapter pipe to one side, keep the other side 'slip fit'.
Reinstall headers.
Now you just unbolt the 2 bolts only on the pipes in the way, then slip them up out of the connector.
Replace the tubes when done with the plugs.
Gasket never moves, no pipes move that don't actually need to, and the pipe is sectioned short enough to just pull it straight up and out for a moment.
Dave

Edit: Weld the slip pipe section on 'downstream'. That is how the manufacturers do it. Probably have better flow and no leaks that way.
Welded 'upstream', the exhaust will be pushing against the open side of the pipe.

 

You know, since the beginning of this thread, that is exactly what I was thinking of doing (what Ratio said). I just wasn't sure that I could cut the flanges away and just have the two bolts per hole hold it on well enough. If it will, I will do this the next time I take out the engine and/or the header. Then I could swap, or repair any one plug I might need to without messing with the entire header.

What do you think, maybe 1" of slip-over, or should I do more overlap?

I could also put in a spacer on just the two cylinders that need it...

 

i would say 1 inch should be good maybe 1 1/2