How do these numbers sound?

Discussion in 'Technical' started by scooper77515, Jan 5, 2007.

  1. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    This is why Simon wins...he has found what works, and doesn't mess with it. I keep trying something different, and come out worse each time. I add gears, new heads, spool, bigger tires, etc. etc. and make no real headway. He runs the same (but adds a new fuel pump and cool air) and makes better numbers...

    Good for him...he is by far the better, and more motivated racer...mine, currently, is up on blocks, with no tranny fluid in it, no carpet, and no seats.

    I am trying to make these last few sentences sound like a compliment and encouragement to a better racer/builder/driver...but no matter what I write, I come off sounding like a jealous D1CK...not trying to sound like that...it just happens... :D

    I wish for Simon to always be .2-.5 seconds faster than me :cool: Does that sound good?
     
  2. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    After swapping my dual plane Performer (mostly a stock replacement) for a single plane Torker 289, I REFUSE to ever go double plane again. The improvements are such that I could not describe them in words. You would just have to try it to see the diffence.

    Look at the guys who are taking a dual plane and putting an open spacer on it...thereby making it a single plane...
     
  3. ratio411

    ratio411 Member

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    Hey!
    You sound like you have lightened it at least 100 pounds...
    You know what that means...
    Another tenth in the quarter!
    You might beat Simon now!:biglaugh:
     
  4. ratio411

    ratio411 Member

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    Yeah... That is what I had to do to my Perf. RPM, and it still felt lazy.
    I used a 2" open spacer to wake it up.

    It just became a single plane intake with really twisty runners, which surely hurts compared to a single plane with straight, obstruction free runners.
     
  5. PaulS

    PaulS Member extrordiare

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    I can tell you that the manifold and cam don't match - that Torker is for a higher RPM than your cam will give you. You can gain some power by switching to a dual plane manifold. 204 / 214 is good for 5000 rpm and that manifold is geared for engines in the 6000 range.
    Paul
     
  6. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    Yeah...look at my signature (at the bottom of my posts). It says something like "too small". It worked for my stock heads, but when I went to the Ps, the cam was way too small...

    "Way too small." Story of my life[​IMG]
     
  7. eddie1975

    eddie1975 Windsor Specialist

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    Scott is that duration @ .050 ?
     
  8. stmanser

    stmanser Looking for a Maverick

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    if i had another intake to try i would. but i dont want to buy one if it isnt going to be better than my current one. yes i have a performer 289 intake. im sure it is starving my engine a bit. but i cant find an intake for cheap enough that if i dont like it i wont be out a lot.

    also i run a 4 hole carb spacer on it. without the spacer it seems to bog.... despite the obvious.. what are the differences between a single plane and a dual plane intake. is one type better than another or is it personal preference.?

    i do need new heads.
    i do need new cam
    i do need a new intake

    but i dont know which ones to get.
     
  9. eddie1975

    eddie1975 Windsor Specialist

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    afr 165 street/strip heads

    not sure about the cam

    most any mild single plane intake

    JMO
     
  10. Shinysideup

    Shinysideup Chillin the most

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    235 hp in my book. by those times.
     
  11. igo1090

    igo1090 Member

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    get a torker 289 off ebay for around $80. if you're not happy with it, put it back on ebay. it might be borderline for now, but should be an improvement & when you put gears in the car, it will be just fine. what cam do you have?

    i'm not familiar with edel carbs, but i dont think its set right if you are getting a bog with a performer intake. even with 2.79 gears. jmho.

    is your cam in the 218-224 deg at .050 range? if it is near that, if it were me, i would go for the torker & then gears first; heads & converter later. just another opinion.
     
  12. ShadowMaster

    ShadowMaster The Bad Guy

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    There's your first problem. :rolleyes:

    Remember, Computer Boy......... G.I.G.O. :evilsmile
     
  13. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    Yes, the program give option of "seat-to-seat" or .050.

    Shadow. I recognize that this program is spitting stuff at me that may not be accurate. I was hoping to use it to estimate what improvements will give me.

    If anyone has done a real dyno and can compare those numbers to the Dyno2000, then we could figure out what percentage the Dyno2000 is "overshooting" then use the Dyno2000 and just subtract the 25% (or whatever % error it is giving us) and have a really good estimate of what the real power output is.

    I guess I just volunteered to take my car to the dyno...[​IMG]

    Will have to wait until I get carpet and seats back in.
     
  14. TonyS

    TonyS Member

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    Desk top dyno our fun stuff, but drag strip never lie. I think your car runs good for what been done to it. But it can always go faster. Could you give us your timming ,jet and rod sizes. Tire pressure front and rear. Do you leave 2 black marks about the same size when you hit the go pedal to the floor? How do you leave the line at idle or power brake? You have some more HP in your set-up, just some fine tunning to lower your ET.

    Have a good ride
    Tony
     
  15. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    I couldn't give all of that and make it mean anything, since it has been 6-8 months since I last ran at the track, and I have since changed all the jets/rods/springs, have new tires, etc. Also, new aluminum radiator, lots of changes.

    When winter came, the cooler temps and different gas formula gave me a lag on takeoff, so I spent a couple days messing with the carb to get rid of the lag. I will keep the setup labeled "winter" so I don't have all the guess work next year. Same for the summer, I will figure out which jets to use, then label them "summer". This should keep me going until I do something serious to the engine (cam, 331 stroke, etc).

    As for tire pressure, i usually go 35 all around. At the track, I will try to squeeze in 40psi front (these are big tires too, at 215/60r15, lots of rotating mass). Then I will try to drop the rear pressure to around 20-25, I have gone as low as 15 with no ill effects. Still enough to get me home afterwards for a 10 mile highway trip, but low enough that more rubber is contacting the ground and it is a bit more "spongy".
     

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