I honestly think I'll be a-ok with an engine built around a stock 351w block, even a later hydro roller one. To get 700whp I think I'd need a set of AFR 225s plus a 200 shot, even then it better have all the right parts and good tuning. (and is more than I'll ever need, lol)
A good well prep'd "early block" with a set of 4blt mains can take 650/700hp and will hold up as long as you don't spin it past 7500rpm. It's pretty easy to have a cam custom ground to make 600/700hp and still not reach the 7500rpm range. An early 351w has almost 10lbs of extra material in the main area, and you can easily put non-splay'd 4blt mains for added stability........................the only drawback is that by the time you buy/find a good early block, put the 4blt mains in and prep it for priority oiling........then bore and hone you are almost the same as buying a Dart or other aftermarket blocks................or you could get the FMS block which is cheaper than most aftermarket blocks. One thing to keep in mind when building a motor 500hp or over is that you need to make sure you have the best 4340 Crank, 4340 rods, and a really good set of forged pistons.......................not to mention all of the clearances have to "spot on"...................but if you have the basic core motor bullet proof then you can go for the sky with 250hp 2 or three stage NO2. Personally I'm an "All Motor" type guy................just ole school for me. As a side not, the only block I have ever seen split was a Flathead that tried to make over 500hp (for you guys not knowing about Ford Flatheads, they made 85hp stock)....................and I've been racing for over 35 years..............................maybe split is a figure of speech........
Ok, I've been proved wrong.....but 9400rpm????..................cast crank...... and 5.0 blocks...........not balanced?????????????? I conceed, what can I say. I guess it's just the engineer side of me that ask's the question why would somebody build a high HP motor with parts that aren't meant for that kind of abuse and be surprised that it explodes................it's pretty much inevitable that it's going to come apart...........could be on the 10th run, 50th or 100th................but it is going to come apart sooner or later........ guarranteed! I've built a number of drag race motors over the years and have never had the money to build a real high dollar motor..................so I've made do with used/barrowed and some new parts, but always bought the very best I could afford...........along with making sure the motor was blueprinted to the T's, when you put the short block together less heads you could spin the crank/rods/pistons/cam with a 3/8" drive...........and in hundereds of runs down the 1/4 mile in the past 35 years I've never split/cracked/exploded a motor...........the motor I've got now didn't quite meet my expectations of the magic 700hp but again most of the motor is over 12 years old with a few runs under 10 in the 1/4 and the low 6's in the 1/8th.....................if I hadn't have taken it apart to refreshen it................well, maybe it would have looked like one of the blocks on the other site....................
I hear you about $$$ olerodder. I just want to build my motor once! If that means more money (ie longer time to save up) and/or less hp, so be it. My last car ran mid 12s, this thing should be a rocket compared to that with any kind of well set up stroker.
Just choose your parts with a lot of care, and try and stay away from the parts that are made in China (actually cast in China) and brought to the USofA for final machining...................it only takes US manufactures to put in 35% work content into the product before it can be labled "Made in USA", like S.C.A.T., Eagle, C.A.T...................part of the reason the parts are so reasonable (not to say that these companies don't make some really nice billet cranks which are only made here), and some of the best rod manfacturers in the world are still Carrillo, Cunningham, Crower and a handful of others.....just like cranks, Bryant, Crower, Molex.......and others. It's your motor and your money.............like the Knight in Indiana Jones said, "Choose Wisely".
I'm sure mine is the exception to the rule. 331 putting 560 to the tires. Stock 302 block. Shifted at 6400. Made well over a hundred passes. Only took it out to build a motor with more power. This motor is on an engine stand waiting to go in a street rod. I do realize it has been living on borrowed time......
Wow! 560 TTRW's is about the same as mine.............and mine is 408, but I've just got a single carb. So what kind of power adder do you use to make over 600hp at the crank? At least you are keeping the rpms to a safe level..................my thoughts after seeing some of the engines on Yellowjacket.........well, spinning to 9400rpm...............cast crank and unbalanced.................obvisouly yours is put together a little better.
That utube vid gotcha never say never crazy 9400 rpm lol.,but oldrodder I love hearing your advice,your always spoton [/B]
you really need to figure out how fast you want to go, and build your combo around that number I have been drag racing 302's for 25 years, i started out with a 302 w/ 351w heads in the 80's goin 13.50's, went to the boss heads going 12's, then stepped that combo up to go low 11's, and now I make 500 hp @8000 plus rpm, and have gone 10.50's @ 126mph and this the first time I ever had a good block in it. you can rev a 289-302 to 7500 all day long with 2bolt mains, 289hipos did it, and in the 60's 70's and early 80's unless you had a boss block, you had no other options I ran a 2bolt 302 block, cast crank, boss302 rods, boss302 heads, solid cam, track boss 302 intake opened up to the boss ports, a 750 Holley, and tubular automotive headers for over 10 years and ran 11.20's at 118 shifting at 7500 and going thru the traps at 7800. it made around 435 to 450hp according to the pocket dyno, when I upgraded to the roller cam, I now run an eagle 4340 crank, eagle rods, and an older ford SVO A4 block, on a real dyno it makes 500hp. with todays windsor heads, the aluminum CHI cleveland heads, it gives you many options to make 550 hp with am 8.2 deck (302) block, and not have to cut your shock towers. The 347 stroker combo in a 302 block with a good windsor or cleveland head will put your car in the low 10's and you can put a good header in it without a major shock tower rework. Im not putting windsor motors down, im fine with them too, its just nice to spend money on a motor that will fit in the car. I really like high revving small blocks. Duane
I agree 100%. Even my little 310 with simple old school polished/peened rods w/ arp bolts.. along with ported hi-po heads.. pulls to 7,200 all day long with a mildish solid flat. And I really do try to drive my motors like a teenager with his first hotrod.. every chance I get. Just rarely happens with the wife in the car anymore. And to think that she used to street race with me brings back fond memories... well.. most of them were. If you want to have margin for error and added headroom for future growth.. start with a more solid foundation. Otherwise.. reworking factory parts will very easily net you 400 horsepower if you choose wisely. And 500 plus for those who like to run more towards the edge. I can't even count the number of 5.0 guys that I know running well over 500 to the wheels and some of them still only have lightly worked and/or girdled bottom ends. Blueprinting alone can help a lot.