Pretty much. I didn't believe it either till I mocked up the stock pushrods, thinking I might have to make 'em longer. I then tried to install a stock LS1 pushrod, and with the stock cam it hung the valve open about 0.090". With a gnarly cam grind, stock LS1 pushrod length might actually work. As far as keeping the head casting in the temperature zone, it's just a matter of weld a little, check the temperature, weld a little, check temperature, it's getting close to too hot, wait a bit, check temp, cooling off, weld a bit, ect. Nothing real special but I do use Tempilstick temperature indicating crayons. If I'm doing a cold casting, then I use my hand, the casting shouldn't get too hot to touch. Alloy is a pretty good conductor, so if you aren't doing a LOT of welding, best to keep it cold. If you have to do a lot of welding, get it up to temp and keep it there, minimizing the temperature fluctuations helps to keep the warpage all going the same direction instead of sending the casting every which way.
... a fast 6- banger' ... now that's what I'm talkin' about' I'm very intersted in the fast 6-banger 300cid build. I'm on the way to a comparatively Half-Fast Ford 250cid turbo build. The 250 build uses a Buick derived draw-thru turbo setup on a basically stock small block six 250 block. The head's been tested and re-worked but kept at the OEM chamber size for a target static CR @ 8:1 for the forced induction. ... runs great on the run-stand, once the snow retreats from barn it will be put in my Comet. PS I got to line up in staging with Clem Lachance's - @10 sec. -300cid "MagnumSix - Maverick" at LEbanon Valley Speedway's Dover Dragstrip nostalgia days'. It had a sound unlike any other engine I've heard as it launched. have fun . . .
That's pretty cool! There use to be a guy from around here that ran 300 sixes, and he was some sorta NHRA record holder.
Read up on Steve Ambrose. He is the king of Ford 6 cylinder power. There are several articles about his setups on line. May be able to help with the brainstorming of your design. Steve's altered 300 6 banger has been the class of his field for many years. Best of luck on your project. Should be an interesting build.
The stock crank and rods are fine to 400HP, but I will be going at least double that...the stock crank doesn't scare me yet but the stock rods will be replaced with Oliver units. If I start getting cracks in the crank, I know where they'll start at, and it won't be good, but is unlikely to be really catastrophic. Regular examinations will be in order until I am convinced otherwise. I am also still looking for one of the factory steel cranks, they aren't exactly common anymore. Got the car unloaded from the shipping company Tuesday...It's now bent. I was really mad about it, but they've paid for it and now it's just more bodywork. I was really looking forward to owning a straight car...for once! As it is now, I really need to get it scrubbed, sanded, and sealed, and get my parts boxed up and sorted through. I need to know what I am missing and what I don't need.
How will you handle the increased length of the 300 six versus that of a factory 200 or 250 when it comes to mounting a radiator?
Easy...I can pick where I want the engine to fit, so I'll have all the room I want. Engine is only 30" from bellhousing to damper, after I get through with it. I don't need or want a mechanical fan, I am not running V-belts, so I don't need a 3-row damper, that cuts off almost 8".
why not?.. you already cut the hell out of nearly every piece of metal on that engine by now.. so what's a little sheetmetal work in the scheme of things to be modified, right? Are you familiar with the weight transfer problems of these old nose heavy/short rearend Fords? If so, I would circumvent it in any way possible and most definitely not add to such shortcomings. Or.. just wait to get moving a bit before you throw even more boost at it to go make it all back up on the big end.
Spent a little time on this car last week...been trying to get a new job going since I lost mine. The waiting period gives me time to work on the Maverick, though! Pulled it out of the shed, started sanding the body down. Got it about half sanded back, etched and ready to prime what I've sanded: I replaced that driver's door, BTW, picked up one from Craig Selvey while I was visiting my sister at school. That's about it for the day...Need to pull the other (not so good) fender off and finish sanding and priming that cowl panel, and start sanding down the door jambs and around the glass channels. From there, I'll finish pulling the rocker panels and get them half straight, do the quarters from the bodyline down, and across the back of the car. That'll have it in a position to not rust while I work on the driveline for a while. Got the door etched and prepped, but it was dark so primer will wait a bit.
Awesome work I would like to have a fast 6 in my maverick. I have also seen another builder make a v12 based on ls engines cut up, one was in an airplane one in a suburban and one was being built for a 240 datsun, Also there was a guy in the 90's that built v10 engines out of SBC engines. A freind works at a machine shop that a guy had welded 2 subaru heads together to put on a model a engine. again awesome work cant wait to see how it turns out
Actually, many people have done this in the late '70's/early '80's with both aluminum and cast iron canted valve heads like the Boss 302 or 351 Cleveland. They competed in Competition Eliminator Gas and Altered classes. I have heard rumors of an LS-based hybrid head being done a few years ago but never actually saw it.
No, Sizemore's Maverick could not run the modified cylinder head in H/MP. That was for factory heads only. My father ran H/MP. He and Glenn Self (292" Camaro) ran Sizemore out of Modified Production. Only after Bruce made the switch to Comp Eliminator could he run the hybrid Cleveland style head on the straight six engine in his tube chassis Pinto. Bruce had decent success with the Pinto too.