How will my car do at the 1/4 with the 150 shot?

I would be happy with 12s, with the $6000 I have invested so far.

I am sure my wife would do better. She shoots better than me, and pretty much anything other than surfing or wakeboarding, she is better than me.

I bet if I kept my heavy foot off the throttle, and just eased into it, the numbers would be better than if I just nailed it off the line.

 

Put some slicks on it, you wont spin then

 

I have 26X10.5 M/T Streets. Only used them in the 'hood.

It takes a bit more to break them loose and do a burnout.

Coupled with my CalTracs, I figure this little 2900 lb jobbie should hop right on out of it's skin.

 

A buddy of mines 2700lbs fox went from a 13.08 to a 10.63 with a 150 shot.
Also most tracks require a fire jacket with the use of any power adders,you can just pick up a cheap single layer jacket or buy yourself a good one.

 

So, since I am new to this forum, could you tell me a little more about the motor/trans/gears/rearend/suspension you have now.

First, in the quarter mile, if you have a 2800lb car and are turning 10.5's you need to have about 480hp to tires and approximately 575 at the flywheel. There are a lot of variables here, but the numbers are close.

The Mav I just bought has turned 9.9's at 137 which means when the motor was fresh it had about 750HP @ the flywheel and 630HP at the wheels. This car is heavy at 3125lbs and today/last season it ran 10.5's
@ 128mph.......so it is producing about 520HP to the rear wheels and 640 at the crank. I just did a leakdown test on and the motor still looks really good...........................but when it was turning the 10.5's it did
have a throttle stop. So after getting much more familiar with the car when the season starts I will gradually see what it can do. I know that
with the MSD 7Al.3 the top end rev limit is currently set at 7200rpm so I may have to change this to 7500rpm.

I do know the motor was put together by CHP in 98/99..........so........we will see!

The other caveat is that I haven't driven on a drag strip in over 20+ years
and my reaction time may be a little slow for a 60+ year young guy.

So, depending on a whole bunch of things including the driver I would be willing to put another $20 bucks on the line that you will not make it to the 10's and say that you will be in the 11's (but I need to know a little more about the car) before I put this in concrete.

One thing you should do is watch the show on the "Speed Channel" called
Pass Time. If you know the weight of the car and HP you can sometimes come pretty close to guessing the ET.


IMHO

 

One other thing that was mentioned....................was about picking up a "Cheap" fire suit/jacket. At minimum you should have a two layer suit especially if you are going on the bottle. I hope your life/well being is not thought of as "Cheap". Racing is/can be a dangerous sport and people have been seriously hurt and killed using "Cheap Crap".
For you guys who don't know me, here is a picture of me coming off the track at Thunderhill, CA after an SCCA race. Notice the SCCA patch and NHRA patch.................I support both!

 

Damn! Pass Time AGAIN!

This keeps popping up. I have no idea what it is, and I don't have SPEED channel so I cannot watch it.

I don't plan on re-re-re-writing what my specs are. I have a website that lists it all out, go to it and hit Spec Sheet, or look at the signature at the bottom of my posts and get the gist of it all.

But I agree, 10.5 sounds pretty hot for my setup. I was expecting mid to high 11s, but won't know for sure unit I actually run it.

Olerodder, my last race was done in cutoffs, a tank top, and thong-sandals.

My new setup is a bit different, and things may need to change.

 

Too bad you don't get the speed channel, Pass Time is pretty fun to watch.

What I am going to say is really general, but should give you a good
indication of what the car will do...............but again, there are so many
variables that I could be way off base. I don't know if you drive the car
on the street............but if you do and have a front sway bar.........unhook it at the strip, wrap the fuel lines with some heat resistant material, install a "cool can" for the fuel before it is wrapped, and I can think of a dozen other things to do that you probably have already thought of or done.............

OK, the 3:80's are really going to hurt you getting into the 11's. If I read your website you had this new motor on the chassis dyno and it made 265HP to wheels???????
To get into the 11.9's you will need about 320HP to rear wheels and this is if your car is 2700lbs, and to get into the low 11's you need about 400HP to the rear wheels. Also, if you have 29" tall tires you will be doing about
114mph @ 5krpm.......and back pedaling I would guess that to get to 114mph you will need about about 315HP to the rear wheels.....which in a 2700lb car would put you right at 12.00 or 11.9's.
So....................let's say you have 265HP RWH and you use a 150shot which should give you close to the 400HP mark, even with that I don't think you can manage mid to low 11's with the 3.8 gears......IMHO

 

He's right, Scott, your gears are crap. I'll get 'em out of the way for you...

 

Also, just because a nitrous company advertises a 150 shot, it doesn't always equal 150 to the rear wheels.

 

Well I think 11s for sure,do you have slicks?10 maybe if everything goes good from the start.I have found that hitting the no2 from the launch usually works best.Oh one more thing,install frame connectors,even if they are WELDED under the floor.You will be surprised how the car reacts after,even driving around town.

 

Yes, the package says "approx 150 hp on a 350 ci motor" but also states that they pulled 168 out of a stout 350 on the dyno. Just another variable to add to the mix.

When I race, tires will be 26X10.5 for a little quicker launch. I don't plan on changing gears because this is primarily a street car. The only thing I will do at the track different than on the street: 1) swap rear tires to M/T ET Street 26X10.5 on aluminum rims, 2) turn on nitrous bottle, 3) MAYBE adjust the preload on my Caltracs.

Otherwise, what I am running on the track is what I drove there with in the car.

I may someday get a better converter, something that stalls to 3000, being the only other modification. Should still be street-abe and yet improve my takeoff at the track. Currently running a stock converter which stalls to around 1800-2000.

Already have subframe connectors. It really DID make a difference in how the car felt. It lost all of it's squish and ended up being a stiffer ride. More rattles, too.

 

Olerodder, I am a donater. I really get a kick out of donating my time, my money, and my services (I am program director for a residential childcare facility and a counselor for some of the kids, so I pretty much dedicate my life to helping others who are less fortunate and in need of help.)

Anyway, I periodically start contests where I post a thread and offer a cash prize to be donated to the winner's choice of charity (I prefer medical, environmental, or similar charities).

Come this spring, I will probably toss out a $50 prize to the guy that guesses my numbers most closely. I might do $25 for closest ET and another $25 for closest speed.

Be sure to chime in and cast your vote!

 

There are no 10 second time slips in your future.....

low 12's to mid 11's very possible


It aint the gears....it's the gears and tire size that is relevant....... you could use steeper gears with that large a tire. I ran 3.40s with a 26 inch tall tire running low to mid 12's

Your car is not optimum but you are on your way!!!. To take advantage you need a bigger stall with anti-balloning properties. You need at least a 2500 stall 2800 to 3200 to be more realistic.

 

Mavowar, why the purple sad face?

I would be VERY happy to have low 12s, and ecstatic to have mid 11s

I simply asked this question because many of the online calculators were saying mid 10s, and I didn't think that sounded right. I figured all you guys could give me a better estimate.

And like I said earlier, I don't want to lose the "street-legal", and the only other mod I may eventually do will be a 3000-ish stall converter. And if I ever get rich, maybe that gear vendor...