200 I-6 to 302 V-8 SWAP LIST PARTS YOU WILL NEED 302 V-8 302 MAVERICK motor mounts 302 frame mounts V-8 Engine cross-member Double hump transmission cross-member V-8 Power steering bracket Longer Power Steering Hoses V-8 Alternator bracket V-8 Starter 250 I-6 or small block ford V-8 bell-housing 250 I-6 or 302 Maverick radiator (Although I got away with using the 200's radiator) Fan Shroud (not necessary, but unless you are using an electric fan it will be missed) V-8 Pulleys -Power steering/crankshaft/fan/water pump Front sump oil pan (Double or rear - sump pans won’t work without frame modifications) V-8 throttle cable (optional) V-8 wiring harness ( or just build one) V-8 kickdown linkage I-6 PARTS THAT CAN BE USED IN THE SWAP Throttle Cable Power Steering Pump Alternator C-4 transmission (any C-4 should work, as long as the bell-housing is changed to a V-8 bell-housing) SOME (HOPEFULLY) HELPFUL ADVICE When doing this swap, you CAN, I repeat, CAN retain the stock 6 cylinder springs. In keeping the I-6 springs, you car will sit lower in the front. I kept the I-6 springs in mine, and have NOT noticed the handling to be that bad. I DO recommend, however, that you take the car and have it aligned. This is strictly left up to you. Another thing that I did, was use my stock 200 ci I-6 radiator in the swap. I did have it re-cored, (which I would recommend that you do) and it works fine. I used a 160 degree thermostat, and I cruise at anywhere from 150 - 190 degrees at 70 and 80, depending on the weather. If you want to run cooler, use a bigger radiator or have an aluminum radiator built. I have also used two different fan setups on this engine, a 16 inch electric fan, and the block-type straight fan off of my 200 I-6. Both worked fine. I have the electric fan on a toggle switch, so I can continue cooling the radiator after killing the car. I DO NOT use both fans at once. I just tested both of them. Personally, I like the electric fan better as it has a built-in shroud, and can continue to run after switching the car off. As far as the transmission goes, I got one from Auto Zone for $430.00 with a 15 month unlimited mile warranty. I would recommend buying one or having yours rebuilt instead of just bolting the I-6 C-4 right on in there. It probably won’t last. It will work though with the V-8 bell-housing. THIS REALLY CAN BE DONE !!! It has been said that you could not have long-tube headers and retain the automatic shifter on the column. It can be done. I did it. What I will say is that the stock shift rod will have to be bent to fit from the selector on the transmission itself to the column shift lever on the firewall. It will just be trial and error, but if you keep trying, you will eventually get the angles bent right to fit around and through the headers. One thing though, I had to manufacture a drop-bracket for part of the power steering (Bear with me, it is late and my mind is blank, - it looks like a shock lying on its side) because the shaft was rubbing on the header. I just cut a piece of iron and drilled two holes in it- one to bolt to the car, and the other to bolt to the power steering piece that was rubbing. This lowered the piece (sideways shock thing) about 1 ½ inches. Plenty to clear the header. This was basically all that it took to enable the use of headers with the column shift auto. Please keep in mind, that these things worked for me, and should work for you. If I left out any parts, just put ‘em on in there. If anyone else has some advise on this swap, feel free to add. I’m sure that I left something (s) out, but I hope that this will help some of you who are wondering what it would take to do the swap. Keep in mind though, this stuff ain’t just gonna jump right in there. Be prepared to spend a little time, and effort, if not some money to do it right. It’s worth it though. Hope this helps – Country
The above article is something that I wrote up when I did my I-6 to V-8 swap. I wrote it so that it might help some of the new folks who were wanting to perform the swap. There have been a couple of additions, but this list is still pretty much all that you will need. Hope it helps someone. Preston For more discussion on this topic, go here.... http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=4581 Like I said, I hope this helps! Country Mav
The shock thingy is a slave cylinder. It might help folks to know that this part is widely available from any header manufacturer for a few bux. Or you can get a used one cheaper. They don't wear out. It is called the "Ford P/S drop bracket". Sure beats fabbing one. Dave
if you cant find the v-8 frame mounts for a maverick you can get some for a 65 to 70 model mustang but you will have to drill new hole for the mustang frame mounts
Ok can someone ADD to that list ALL of what is needed to buy for a 5.0 to get all that is necessary to go EFI. I have heard Mustangs, and Crown Vics work for this, but what all goes along?, as far as wiring, sensors, computor etc? I'd like to find everything I would need at a junkyard if I buy a package I just want to know I am getting everything I need. Another option I have thought of is converting the 250 to EFI, What applications used an EFI on the I 250, did the f150 get this motor with EFI?
I am pretty sure Ford never made a fuel injected 250. The 250 is a car engine, F150's had "big block" 300's, which came in trucks and vans only. 300's had EFI in the end before they were discontinued. The 300's were torquey, but notorious for getting bad gas mileage, even with EFI. I'm running a 300 in my '71 F250. There was also a 240 6 cylinder which the 300 was based on and I believe the 240 came in some cars in the 60's. I've got a couple of 240's laying around from 60's F100's I have parted out. The 240 and 300 have removeable intakes and there are a good bit of aftermarket parts for them. Neither engine will fit in a Maverick without modifications.
6 to 8 I have done the swap once before on a 1970 two door, luckily i had all the motor mounts and cross members for the engine and transmission, I had a great deal of problems getting the 302 into the body because of the strut towers, I couldnt even fit stock manifolds on the motor and get it in. Eventually I went with headers and had to cut the strut towers out and fab up new strut towers to provide the needed clearance. I am getting ready to purchase a 72 with a 6 cylinder in it, will I have the same problems with this car or does the body change from year to year. Has anyone else had this problem with their conversion?
the bodies of all maverick are the same you cannot put the motor in with the headers bolted on..... you have to have the drivers side kinda sitting in there and pull it up by hand..... the passenger side you can slide up from the underneath
I used some wire ties to hold the headers in the engine bay. Then just droppd in the engine and trans. Getting the engine, trans, and headers bolted up only took abotu 20 minutes.
