im running a Stealth pulls to 6800 fine ....no room for a spacer...............with a air gap the carb would not fit under the hood of my car
Stealth is single plane, isn't it? In fact, if it is the one my buddy has, it looks a lot like the torker (not the torker 2!) and I think is works similarly. I don't have the numbers to verify that. I had to lose my spacer when I went with the torker289, but no problem, it revs much better (not higher, with my mismatched cam, but it gets to 5500 more quickly, under load or not...it just has a quicker response). Mine is heavily ported, which probably helps a bit. When I rebuild, I will put in a cam that more closely matches, but not now, as I am running stock converter, and have a hard enough time launching now with the lower power range.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&catalogIdentifier=Jegs_Direct&categoryId=15917&parentCategoryId=11937
The 351w you describe should work great with a Torker. (Just a note for the 302 guys, the 351w never had a change on the Torker like the 289-302) The 351w Torker is a lot like the Torker 289, but nothing like the Torker 302 (aka Torker 2). Anyway, the Torker is a lower RPM single plane and will fit under the hood. It is not going to give up torque on a 351 in a light car... no way, no how. Will work well with the 750 & is perfect match to a Toploader! My 2nd choice would be the Stealth if you intend to use a dual plane. Dave
again i want to thank everyone for there input, as for hood clearance, well my stock comet gt scoop got messed up , i forgot to put in the pins for the hood and doing like 60mph and the hood flew up and hit the top of my roof and cracked the scoop so i have been contemplating a cowl hood????? so i still not sure on the hood....as soon as this weekend is over i'll call my friend doug and have him get me my cam specs i had them written down and in the move down here i guess i lost them, anyway thanks
^--- Ouch... that sux... So I've got both the Torker 289 and Performer 289; with porting, which would serve me better in the road course arena? I've been hearing that a ported Torker 289 serves adequately for straight line racers, but what about someone who's hitting corners? Thanks!
Regular Performer is fine for the street, and you don't have clearence problems with it. Air-Gap doesn't perform any better than a RPM, it just looks cooler. Single plane is for big valves, ports, cam, carb, and headers. Strictly for high RPM applications...
I have run a similar combo in a Mustang a few years ago. Car came with a Torker 289. I used it for a while. I found a torker 2 a while later that had been cleaned up a little and I put it on. No change in performance. Still the same ol' same ol'. I had a Victor Jr in the shop that came off of my Maverick when I ran a 302 in it. Ahh..what the heck, we'll try it on the Mustang. At first I liked it. Fair bottom end, decent midrange but it came on hard at about 3800. It was "lazy" up to that point. I ran it for 2 years give or take. Then came the Turbo 302 in the Maverick....I took the Victor Jr off of the Mustang & used it on the Maverick. The Mustang got a new Air gap RPM. Boy, that was a BIG difference! With the Jr, I could punch the throttle at, say, 1200 RPM (5 speed) and it'd just start revving & really pick up some power at around 3800. With the air gap, I'd punch it at 1200 (right off of idle) and it'd light up the tires instantly. That said, it didn't pull as hard upstairs (6000+) but it did GREAT in the midrange. It also helped me tune the carb so that I didn't need to run such a rich mixture, which helped MPG quite a bit. 41 was the best but it usually averaged between 28-36 depending on how I drove it and the state of tune. It liked to be run lean. The RPM is not nearly as lazy down low as either of the torkers or the Jr. Response was 10 times better as well. I also used a 600 Edelbrock carb, but later switched to a 750 Holley just for giggles...and noticed a pretty decent gain in power above 5000 RPM. Below that it felt the same as the edelbrock, and the "E" got much better fuel mileage and was easier to tune...so I put it back on. I can tell you from experience that the RPM (air gap or not) WILL outperform a torker or T-2 or Victor Jr for that matter...on a MILD street car with a 302. The Jr really shines on higher RPM solid cammed strokers. The torker is a step above the performer, and it is lower so it fits under the hood. I don't have any real-world experience with the Weiand stuff....other than on a 466 (later went to 514") in my old truck. I was not impressed. It did its' job, but getting it bolted on was a pain. Holes never lined up and the ends needed to be machined. Should have went with a RPM and not looked back, but it's what I had and I used it. Maybe it was just a fluke deal with that ONE manifold, but it was the first & last Weiand Stealth that I'll use unless someone wants to pay me to try one on a semi-healthy 408" windsor.
You have to remember that the engine is a system of parts that MUST match or you will never get it to run right. The biggest carb in the world won't make your lawn mower go any faster. The intake has to match the RPM range that your heads breathe at. The heads have to match your camshaft. The exhaust side has to match the intake side of things or you can pull allthe air in the world into your engine but if you can't get rid of the exhaust it doesn't do any good at all. When you look at the specs for the manifold, cam, heads, and headers they are all made to perform best at certain RPM ranges. If you put an intake on that is best running 7000 RPM matched with a cam that gets top HP at 5500 the manifold will make it run like a dog because the fuel will fall from the airflow due to the low speed that it moves through the manifold at. You get a big bog when you take off from a start and it starts to run good about the time your cam runs out of air. Add to this a rear end gear that needs the engine to turn 7000 by the end of a quarter mile and your 5500 RPM motor is a dog for the last 1/2 of the strip. You want it all coming together for the best times and for ease of operation on the street. Match your parts so that they all perform in the same RPM range and you will have a car that runs great with no nursing it through the bottom end.
So what your saying is, in order to achieve maximum power from your engine for your particular application, it's best to sit down and figure out what RPM range you plan on operating in the most. Then go over your engein parts and match each one to that particular range. Does that sound right? So for someone who will be racing in twisties, what RPM range might he be in the most? I'd think that you mostly operate in midrange, say from 2500-4000, with more emphasis on lower end?
What I am saying is it does no good to have an intake manifold that is made for an engine that will turn 7500 RPM when yours will float the valves at 5500. Cam manufacturers tell you that their cam is good for 1200 - 6200 - so you look in the catalog and find an intake that says it is good from 800 to 5500 or do you get the one that says it is good from 1000 to 6500? You get the one that will run closest to your cam. When you choose a carb do you get the biggest carb that will bolt to your manifold - no, you find out what cfm your enging needs by looking at the charts and then you put a carb on that is close to that CFM. When you buy headers - do you go out and find the biggest tubes you can find that will fit your motor? No, you find the ones that the manufacturer says will operate on your engine in the application that you are running. It makes no sense to put a dual quad tunnel ram manifold on a stock 302 with stock iron manifolds and then stick two 300 CFM carbs on top of it to give you 600 cfm. The combination will not run well on the street or track. It will cough and sputter and bog down on you. It will be like running square wheels on the drag strip - ain't gonna work. It is important to match all your components to the same rpm range that it will be running with. If you don't you lose performance or drivability or both. Common sense is more often right than wrong - there are exceptions but darn few of them.
Well, some guys do. After all, bigger is better, right? But that's another argument for another day...
John Hopkins.......get a Weiand Stealth. MaverickMat.......use the Torker 289 for a road course engine. Now wasn't that easy, kids!
