Issues! Electrical Issues! Help?!

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Jony, Jun 3, 2019.

  1. Jony

    Jony Member

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    1972 Ford Maverick Grabber 5.0L 302 v8 NA
    Hello everyone, I'm back again with an attempt to revive the Maverick after it hasn't started in 2 years. Back then it shut off mid-drive going on an errand run and luckily there was a parking lot to pull into. It cranked then and still does now.

    Recently I had someone come over to help me diagnose what it could be and after an hour or so, I was told it was an electrical issue since all, or most, ignition- based parts in the engine bay were tested and all checked out. Rear lights were tested since they don't turn on when in reverse and haven't been able to get them to turn on.

    I started a parasitic drain test and every time I tried starting the car, the battery was slightly drained. I'm not quite sure if the amps for the car is the same as any other with a supposed reading of 30A, but the car is reading between 30-70A slowly raising and dropping amps randomly.

    I checked most wires under the dash and in the engine bay. I also took off the aftermarket radio and it's wires as I thought that'd be the case but it still didn't start. Any wires that were split I soldered them together and nothing. There are some wires I can't see/ reach that I haven't tried but it doesn't look like it might be the reason. I haven't tried removing fuses since they're glass tube fuses and don't want them breaking as I remove them so I'm getting a removal tool for it later.

    The only things I can think of that can factor in to the "possible" drain or open circuit are:

    -fuses ( wrong amps used or blown)

    -Dash cluster (the plastic & copper is peeling off and
    corroded)

    -wiring (corroded, broken, or wrong AWG/ Gauge)

    -Rear lights


    I have bought an aftermarket fuse box for blade fuses to replace and relocate the current fuse box just in case. If that's the case I may as well restore the car, it began to rust faster since it sat for 2 years.

    If anyone has any ideas or solutions on how to fix this wanted problem. Also I wanted to ask if anyone here also lives in Illinois, would it be possible for any of you help check the car?
    I'd appreciate if you could, let me know of any of you could, Thanks!
     
  2. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    Assuming it still has points, most of the items you mentioned have no bearing. AND if it has a 30A continual draw, something should be smoking. If it has a Duraspark conversion wiring is most likely suspect and substitution of ign module and dist are best troubleshoot. There are ways to test module but are far more complex than most can perform.

    For points all that's necessary for spark is power to coil(feeds from ign sw through a 1.5 ohm resistance wire), and a wire to points inside dist. Also must have a good condenser(again test by substitution) connected to points. Whether the car has no tail lights, dash lights, dome light etc, etc is irrelevant. As mentioned all that's required is power to coil and starter to crank.
     
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