for now im probably gonna put the aod in cause i know it will work and all i need is to get the crossmember or make one and get a little bracket thats like a inch or 2 long that cost like $30 to hook the linkage to the carb, with no rebuild. after i have it in and running ill probably rebuild the c4 just incase something happens or i decide that i want the better performance over the gas mileage. i know that the higher (numericly) the gear ratio the faster, higher revs , and less gas mileage. i want gears that i can go to a junk yard and find easily, that would allow me to get a minimum of 20 mpg when drivin easy. more mpg would be great but can anyone describe how much the performance will suffer vs. the mpg?
The C4s behind the 200 and smaller engines have low capacity clutch drums in them. You would need to buy used drums for both clutches, a used "A" front servo and piston assembly and a green stripe modulator. You will need a bellhousing, flex plate to match the engine, a converter to match your combination and a good auxillary cooler. The TransGo 40-2 kit will give your C4 crisper shifts and longer life. The expense of the upgrade should be under the cost of a V8 core at $50 - $75 ( with the exception of the TransGo kit and Cooler). If you feel competent you can look through the mods in my thread "How to hotrod the C4 Transmission" in the Tech Articles forum. I am willing to help anyone make the mods suggested.
well right now im just trying to get the motor together and in the car, im actually further behind than i thought. its gonna be cheaper to get the aod in there than rebuild the c4 and get bellhousing,flexplate,etc. i still have to get the radiator, fan, water pump, timing cover, starter, throttle cable, oil pump, motor mounts, aod crossmember. that adds up to about 6, 700 $$. so its gonna be a lil longer than i thought unless i get my old job back or the wife gets in the cna class. is there a pully eleminator kit for a late model 302 with the serpentine? my car doesnt have power stearing or ac, and would normaly take a V belt. i'd like to keep the reverse rotation water pump and the same chain cover and the dip stick in the side of the block. so does anyone know of a kit to replace the ac, ps, and any other pullys i might need with a plain pully, and then us an electric fuel pump? would a old mustang aod conversion crossmember work on the maverick? i got my carb and intake in yesterday, the list number on the carb is 1850-5, what model number would that be? also would the inside of the intake need cleaning, if not how would i clean the outside? would the glass bead machine hurt the aluminum intake?
Yep, $420 parts, 24 hours of labor - which includes machine work and time and a small investment of $598-$599 for tooling. anybody should be able to duplicate it in their back yard - If they have a lathe and a mill. I use a tool post grinder on the hardened shafts. You could do it Frank. It was a one off AOD for me - the off road application is completely different valve body mods than the normal street and drag racing AODs. I built it for my son and did some new stuff to see if it would work for off road. He says he wants me to come over and drive it because it is "AWESOME". I am glad he is happy That is a $2400 AOD at retail. It will easily last him forever. One of the mods caused a little interference with the filter. We ended up spacing it 1/8" lower in the pan. He can hold it in low or second or shift between them all day long. When it goes into third and reaches low load it automatically shifts into OD. It isn't a good road or race tranny because there is no way to hold it in third - it will always shift into OD too early for good road use - and racing in OD is a good way to destroy it. For his 4 wheeling it will be perfect.
Why didn't you leave the...OD...out...(as in C4)..you don't need it for...drag racing or 4 wheeling? ...you couldn't talk him into using one of them...C4s...built with used parts for ...$50-$75... Frank...ILMAOD
no offence to either of you, i know yall have your preferences and probably wont stop till the other agrees, but it seems you two are the only ones left that are even looking at this tread still and if one of you can answer any of my questions from the past few post that would be great, then yall could go back to proving each other wrong. thanks
Almost feel like I am sticking my nose in someone elses fight. From what I found a C4 behind the six is worthless, to be honest i found it is cheaper to go down to pick and pull and get one out of a V8 car for $45 bucks on half price day then it is to collect the correct clutch packs and stub shafts to make it equal to a V8 C4. There are alot of us that run stock AOD's in our cars and trucks with no modificaitons at all without any problems. Not everyone thinks that we need to race our cars from light to light all day or think we need to cross the rubicon in our Bronco's.....as for your questions. No the mustang crossmember will not work without modification. Actually talk to Frank (71gold) he sells AOD crossmembers if you are unable to do it yourself. Yes there is a serpentine eliminator it is about 35 bucks on Ebay, I got a smog pump eliminator off of Ebay for 40 bucks. With that and the stock tensioner you will have to figure out the length of belt you will need. As for cleaning the intake, you can take it down to most machine shops and they will boil it for about $35 bucks it will take a day but it usually is worth it. About the numbers on the carb I could not tell you sorry.
thanks, about the eliminator, i want to keep the reverse flow water pump but it wont work without the serpentine, right? i would need a ac eliminator, ps elem. and smog elem. i think thats all thats on the serpentine now, but all i need is the water pump,altenator, that might be it, correct me if im wrong but my mind just went blank. and what cars have some good rear gears? 3.55 being the highest (numericlly) that i wanna go, and 3.00 being the lowest. and maybe what kind of effect it will have on the aod vs the c4? thanks alot
You can do it with just the eliminator and the alternator (good Idea to retain the stock tensioner) alot of the 5.0 guys are going that way it ends up looking something like this http://www.jegs.com/i/March+Performance/655/30305/10002/-1/756855|10223 As for the 3.55 gears I could not tell you most of the fords I have found come with 3.0 gears or something similar in the cars of the 70's. The best thing I could tell you is buy a good set of richmond gears from Jegs, summit, ect and have them installed if you don't want too much to do with it yourself. I have found in my dealings axles were pretty much forgotton maintanace wise by most people so if you find another 3rd member or axle there is a good chance it will need to be rebuilt. As for the effects of the AOD vs the C4 is the rpm range. The first three gears in an AOD are similar to that of the C4 in it's entirety, this being that third gear is a 1 to 1 ratio (or in other words 1 revolution of the motor for 1 revolution of the transmission output shaft). The AOD has an extra gear on top of that and it makes it(I believe, but am probably wrong, sorry Frank could tell you) about an .84 to 1 (.84 revolutions of the motor for 1 revolution of the transmission output shaft) this equates to less rpm to maintain the same speed. Hence less rpm maintains less fuel required to run at 70 with an AOD then with a C4.
The OD band is used for second gear and OD. If you lock it out then you have to re-route the the second gear oil flow. It can be done but it is an amazingly difficult feat without spending money on an aftermarket solenoid and making complex changes.
JD, sorry about the cross talk. Have you checked your rear end ratio? If you already have 3.23 - 3.25 you are right in the middle of your desired range. With the 200 Cu " it would seem natural to have a lower gear than the V9s have. Since you seem convicted to the AOD check the difference in length with a tape measure. measuring along the bottom is as good a place as any. If the AOD is longer then the C4 plus the amount of yoke sticking out then you will have to have a shorter drive line.
"If the AOD is longer then the C4 plus the amount of yoke sticking out then you will have to have a shorter drive line." ...and if it's the same as your C4 (as mine was) you just bolt it up... ...Frank...:Handshake
You have the four lug don't you... sorry didn't think about that when you said you had a six. The best you could do is find a later model maverick using the 5 lug axle and get the gears to match that axle, also when you do it if you have not you can upgrade the front to disk brakes.
