Just to let everyone know I'm not a complete moron, I made up a little sketch of what the basic wiring diagram with switches in it would look like. My error was that I forgot the alternator is a power source wired in parallel with the battery so it would sustain the electrical system without the battery. However, with just a battery and no alternator it wouldn't matter which side the switch was in and I stand by that.
It worked!!! I put the switch in the positive line, and cut the hot alternator wire and spliced in 14 guage wire to the battery-side post of the switch, and it dies immediately upon switching it off. Thanks for the help, and saving me an extra $30 from replacing with a more expensive switch.
Good deal, Scott! (for anyone's info (I was curious), here's a link to the switch: http://www.autotoys.com/x/cust/product.php?productid=6443&cat=0&page=1)
I haven't driven it yet, but just starting it in the garage a couple times and killing it, it seems like the voltage is low, running 12 or so. Not sure if it will rise when I drive it a bit and recharge. Do you guys think that running 14 guage to the back (almost 20 feet) is too small a guage for the recharge wire (I assume that is what that wire is, that goes from the alt to the positive battery terminal on the solenoid)? The one I cut and extended to the switch clearly said "14 guage" on it, so I just ran that size to the trunk. Or, more likely, running an electric fan, electric fuel pump, and all this extra wire all together is stressing my stock alternator...
This IS the charging wire, isn't it? When I looked at the 14 guage coming off the alternator, I thought it was kinda small, but then it only had 18" to travel to the battery terminal of the solenoid. The 10 guage would be better, especially if I upgrade alternators. I eventually want around 100 amps or so, so I can run radio, and all the other electronics. Is this overkill? I might be able to use it as an arc welder, as well Honestly, though, what is the stock alternator on an A/C car, and what would be a good replacement one-wire amperage?
There should be one wire coming off a post on the back of the alt. That is the recharge wire. The other wires depend on if your alternator is internally or externally regulated. If it's internally regulated there are two wires that plug into the alt. One goes to the main power junction, which should be the main post on the starter. This is the voltage regulating or sensing wire. If you're externally regulated, the sensing wire should go from the starter to the regulator. Then a wire will go from the regulator to the alternator. The second wire is the dash light wire. It also serves to energize the field coil so it will start charging as soon as the alt begins to spin. If you accidentally ran the sensing wire back to the battery and the charging wire to the starter, that could explain the voltage drop. If you kill the regulator power supply then you would also kill the field, which would kill the alt output and thus the ign power. I'm not 100% sure about that one. Anyway, the voltage drop isn't caused by too small of a gauge on the charging wire. The regulator would just increase the voltage and the 14 gauge wire would get pretty hot, but you would still see 14.2 volts at the power junction. I'll try to look up some wiring diagrams to help out.
http://www.tffn.net/altwirng.html Here's a good website. I'm guess you have the early model starter they have pictured on the right. Looking at the back of the alt, the stud with the red thing around it is the recharge post. The other two posts are for voltage regulation and probably ground.
I wouldn't call it a "voltage drop", per se. When I put the electric fan on, it dropped a little to around 14, then the electric fuel pump dropped it to around 13.5. Now that I have this extra wire on it, it stays around 13 volts. I only have one wire that looks like it goes to the alternator from the solenoid...the other one goes into the front bumper area. On the alternator, there are two coming up, one I ran to the back, the other goes into the regulator, so I am pretty sure I have it wired up correctly. I test drove around town, all seeemed well, except for the 13v. It appears to be charging fine, just a little lower than optimal. Either way, it will work fine until I put in bigger wire and a one-wire alternator (preferably something shiny from JEGS...like this one http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...eId=10001&categoryId=23055&searchItemId=91067) I have been eyeballing that one for a while, and it may be just about time to make the move. Until then, is 10 guage the recommended wire for going to the switch? If so, I will wire it all the way to the alternator, and not just splice it into that last chunk of 14 guage that is still on there (doesn't make sense to have a 10 guage circuit interrupted by 12" of 14 guage). EDIT--after looking at the website, I went back out and double checked...the post with the red rubber thingy had a black wire with orange stripe, and that is the one that I spliced into for the switch.
I hate to sound negitive but you will be having power problems with the lashup your making. If you are intending on installing a 100 amp alternator you need min of #4 gage wire and going to the rear makes it even more important. 15.5 volts times 100 amp = 1550 watts of power. Don't use #10 wire as a charge lead for that distance. It's not even used in house wiring for anywhere near that 'current' level. Later with a bigger engine more problems yet for charging and starting.. The reasons is you can't get around electrical law. The higher the currents involved the higher the voltage drops. Every modern car today has at least a 4 gauge charge lead and many have fuse links in line for safety. You will probably ignor me but I have years of experience at this with a battery in the trunk of my Comet and 100 amp alternator conversion all most 10 years ago as well as many other times custom wiring has been done. Do it right the first time and minimize the hassle. Follow electrical design principles for wire sizes, capacity and safety. Do a search out of your brower for auto charge wire size info and see what comes back. Just lisening to some one say 'it worked for me' is not always to be fully trusted.
Scott, the wire you saw in my Maverick going to the solenoid up front is actually Welding Lead purchased from a Welding Supply house. I think the gauge is "2/0" ("Double Ought" where we live). I dunno if this is the wire you're talking about or not so this might be superfluous (big word of the day) information.
Bluegrass, I might argue with you, but I would NEVER ignore you I am using #4 wire for the battery cable that runs the entire length of the car...so you are saying I need just as thick a wire going from the alternator on back? I just swapped out the existing #14 wire with similar wire, and was thinking #10 would accomodate the extra length. Do I need the 100 amp alternator, is that the problem, or would a 60 amp do fine with #8 or #10 wire? I just cannot see that I would need "battery cable" running from the battery to the alternator (I could be easily convinced, though, as the alternator puts out more juice than the battery, and it does make sense, I have just never seen that big a wire coming out of an alternator). Might be time for a new thread...since we are getting into different territory here. PS--I like it when people use big words, especksly when they spell it rite
