Levi Zoesch Pro-Touring 69 Ford Maverick MEGA Build

Thank you

:Handshake

 

Here is the car after it was primed.

 

The next day when I brought it home to dry some more in the 90 degree sun

Also a excuse to show it off on the lawn by a 4 way stop that had a lot of traffic

 

That media blasting did a great job on the shell - saved you a ton of time

 

A peak at where I am at and what I am doing

This was done today

I made two templates out of cardboard to fill the firewall. The first one I did with rough cuts, quick and sloppy. Then went back over all the edges with tape to "fill" the gaps to build a edge to copy. Got everything flush with where the newest template needed to be. Then laid it on the ground in the garage and retraced the template out. Got it all mocked up and noticed I made a few mistakes on where I cut slits into the board to allow the board to go around the frame rails. So, I took some cut up pieces of cardboard to fill the gaps with some tape.

Tomorrow I will go to a buddies shop who does glass, and get a few more large pieces of cardboard to finalize the mock up to transfer it over to steel.

Before


use tape to fill the gaps in the cardboard to create a perfect template of the firewall.


Used tape all around the edges to mark the exact measurements of the cardboard since I did a rough cut out and had wavy gaps. Tape is your best friend


Template marked on the cardboard

Sneak peak

Perfect fit! Nice and snug.


Now I need to pickup some new cardboard and do one final template to scribe onto a piece of metal and have laser cut to do a final mock up before tacking into place -- But before I do that, I will need to mock up a c4 transmission to figure out where I need to shave the beginning of the transmission tunnel down on the firewall.

Once everything is ready to be welded up I will use seam sealer to seal up the very edges of the metal. It will be just enough to do the job, and clean with tape on both sides to minimize it being everywhere on the firewall. should look factory once I am done with it.

 

Very nice work, Levi - you are certainly going way beyond the places my own insanity took me

 

yes your mav is looking a lot better then mine . you putting a v8 in that? oo and and after your dune with yours . you can help me out ok j/k/

 

Thanks Bob, I am thinking I am going to say screw it and back half the car. If I am going to build a bad ass car I might as well do it once, the first time.

Drunk, don't Yo live in Spokane?

 

So, with what you've done, why not set the engine back a bit..now's the time.

 

I assume that Levi is going with an RC front suspension looking at the bare frame rails. I know my Cleveland's front sump area in my Canton pan would hit the rack trying to go back very far - not sure about a Windsor

 

If it were moved back far enough you could use a rear sump pan.

 

My notched Canton pan has a large rear sump but still has enough of a front sump because of the oil pump needing to stay in it's original position up front - that is what hits the rack on mine. I would have to move my engine back a foot or so more to get the entire pan behind the rack and cross member - by then the headers would hit the firewall

 

I think the idea of moving it back (since you have the firewall out anyway) would a great idea especially for corner carving/autocross and even drag racing.
I know this is going to sound crazy and maybe a little expensive (but you can buy used systems and rebuild them) would be to use a dry sump system..............then you wouldn't have to worry about a sump and could lower the motor as well as move it back.................just a thought.......and
it's not my money...........just kind of kills two birds with one stone.

 

We used dry sump systems in 2 Nascar Modifieds we ran on circle tracks back in the 90's - with a frame height of 2 inches off the track, that engine was way down there with the flat bottomed pan

 

What would be the benefits of moving to engine back - as side from center of gravity to assist in gharder cornering.

Also, since I am doing the R&C kit how would the engine be moved considering the engine month on the center of the crossmember? Also, if and when I go to a 351 motor and I have a C6 that would cause the tail shaft to be pushed even further back and less of a drive shaft. What kind of complications would arise from that?

I am open to ideas for modifications but I want to see it all, the good, the bad, the ugly in regards moving the motor back. IMHO it's gotta make business sense so to speak and have major benefis of gong through tthe troubles.

I am almost in a position to say screw it and just do a full blown Chassis on it instead of uni body.



All I want to do is have a Street legal pro Street bad ass car , I have fought my self from removing the function of the rear seat due to the complexity of the build and the safety of my passengers.

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After looking at the car some more I am concerned of how I am going to keep the car off of the ground. I don't have access to a rotisserie nor do I have the money to buy a new one.

Can I re-mount my home made cart to the rear rockers -- and will the weight of the car compromise the floor if I attached at the rear rocker?? Also, I cut right behind the rockers right where the front of the leaf springs mount.