Lifter / Rocker Arm / Pushrods Fix?

Discussion in 'Technical' started by kboldin, Jul 1, 2012.

  1. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    I wouldn't fill it. I would drain and clean the tank...then put the grade gas in that you are planning on running all the time..."87"...:drive:
     
  2. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    got this thing straightened out yet...:huh:
     
  3. kboldin

    kboldin Alain De Cadenet Has My Job!

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    Just got back in town, hopefully over the next few days I'll get it figured out.
     
  4. kboldin

    kboldin Alain De Cadenet Has My Job!

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    We'll I have some news, I pulled the oil pan off to take a look and fix two leaks. The oil drain plug had a previous repair that needs to be fixed again (the right way). Second leak is coming from the rear main seal, long story short, I got the wrong part and had to do the job twice.

    That and it really is a dirty job (maybe we should submit a vid to Mike Rowe!!). Still had the original "rope" seal, I assume the new style rubber seal does not need the pin (please let me know if I should tap it in?).

    So here's the bad news, I've seen worst bearings but mine does not appear to be consistent with a 68k engine. In fact I'm pretty worried about what I found, see pics below. The crank looked fine, no scoring or visible wear. The "pit" in the bearing does not look good. At this point I'm looking for options and advise? Thanks all!


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  5. kboldin

    kboldin Alain De Cadenet Has My Job!

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    Part Two: While I was in there, I pulled the oil pump and did a complete tear down on it. I did find that the pickup was not totally free flowing (I think), possibly some kind of clearish gel, looked sort of like thick honey. At least that's what I think I saw. Really weird whatever it was?? It cleaned up quickly. The engine was cold, started it only to move the car in position for surgery. I ended up using my little ultrasonic on all the parts and re-assembled and re-installed.
     
  6. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    if you can...feel it...it's bad...:yup:
     
  7. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

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    The clearish honey stuff sounds like STP oil treatment, or something similar to it. But STP usually mixes readily with the oil. I use it as assembly lube for the bearings. And you are correct in that the rubber seal does not need the pin present with the robe seal. Just make sure you install the seal with the lip facing the inside of the motor.
     
  8. kboldin

    kboldin Alain De Cadenet Has My Job!

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    So I contacted the PO to see if they had any further information and they said that the damage was consistant with "lack of use". What do you all make of that?
     
  9. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

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    Sounds like a diagnosis based on "lack of knowledge" to me. What did the oil look like before you changed it ? They could have dumped a couple bottles of STP, Motor Honey, or any other oil thickener in it to mask any known problems the PO wanted to cover up.
     
  10. kboldin

    kboldin Alain De Cadenet Has My Job!

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    Now that you mention it, I remember thinking (when I changed the oil the first time). "That's strange, they must have just changed the oil" in relation to the color of the oil. Yep, I think the picture is getting clearer. The engine either has way more than 68k on it or it sustained some sort of oil starvation problem at some point. The oil pan had been repaired previously and they were adamant it only had 68k. My guess is that the little old lady ran it without oil and they tried to fix it the best they could after it sat for about ten years.

    Watch, once I get everything back together it'll have a knock or something..... So disappointed..... Wish they would have been more honest and just told me what the problem was.
     
  11. mercgt73

    mercgt73 Member Supporting Member

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    I have had cracked flexplates make all kinds of noises. Usually more of a chirp, or a tinny snapping, but maybe since you have it apart you could check it out. Not sure if it is an auto or not. Good luck getting it back together.
     
  12. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

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    That spot on the bearing looks to me like the engine sat for years with the bearing at that one spot and moisture somehow accumulated at that spot (the oiling hole in the crank looks to be a near perfect match to it) , it looks like corrosion, not wear.
     
  13. kboldin

    kboldin Alain De Cadenet Has My Job!

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    I really hope your right.......
     
  14. kboldin

    kboldin Alain De Cadenet Has My Job!

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    Long productive day! Got the oil pan back on, had to install it twice (yeah, went to school on that one). First time I installed a multi-piece gasket and it got a little frustrating. Somebody on this site saved my bacon, I'll have to find the thread again. Essentially, gasket gets RTV'd (light coat) to the block first, then pan goes on. I had it all backwards….

    Got it all buttoned up and running. Circling back around to the original problem, valve train ticking. I drained and filled the gas tank with 91 octane. Drove it for about 30-45 minutes, the valve clatter went away. It actually sounded pretty good! I decided to let it run in the drive way while I was cleaning up. Just wanted to stress test the oil leaks and make sure it was running good. For whatever reason, it started to blow a little grey smoke. Tomorrow is a new day for a new problem…… I'm beat…..
     

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