I would like to thank you for your concern on my cam choice and the info that you have provided. Just a little background on this engine. There is not one sub standard part in this engine. From the machine work to insure the deck height is the same and deck is square (90 degrees in relation to main bore center), cylinder bore spacing is correct, Cam barrings are straight, Line bore is correct, Screw in casting plugs, etc, etc, etc...... I went through 5 blocks before I found one that was suited for this build. I have more in just the machine work in this engine than most do in an entire engine build. I have over 14K in this engine and don't take this wrong but I don't think I would overlook something a basic as valve springs that match the cam.(but there is that chance) I built this engine to give it every chance to last for years of hard running. But as all of us know it is mechanical and they do break without notice. As I said before, thank you for your input and maybe someone else that is not familiar with how things work together will get some tips for their build.
I didnt mean this to be insulting in your abilities to build a engine. You must have built the engine for MASHORI,????????????.AFR recomends spring changes when using certain cams.So does most other cam builders.If his rev limiter is working at 6800, than no valve float would occur.Unless there is other valve problems. My little 302 shifts at 6800 (manually) and out the end of the 1/4 at 6600. has been doin this for 3 years. Waas trying to help. Again as some 1 said, for rocker arms to come off the springs, there is a valve problem some where. Hope you find the problem soon. TTFN Ron
As some of you know when I tore my old CHP motor down earlier this year I found witness marks on the trunion of my roller rockers from the push rods rubbing, I am running a stroked 351w with a Crower E Cam with 704 lift and the springs spec'd by Crower are 200lbs seat and 600lbs open. When I tore the motor down they were only 180lbs seat. I did have stud girdles and although the engine only went over 6800rpm (my rev limiter set point) the car still turned a 9.80 in the 1/4. I am in the process of putting the motor back together and will be getting close to align the geometry on the rockers/pushrods soon and will try and document my process and what I found out. I suspect that my push rods were just a tad long......but we will see. Just a question, when you set up the rocker geometry, do you remember what the length of the push rod you used and when you degree'd the cam was it installed straight-up, or did you advance or retard it. Valve train issues are some of the hardest to figure out and although I am starting from scratch (with the exception of the cam profile) I am hopeful I'll find an answer to my issue.
Yep its a mechanical thing. Surprised it didnt come out a ton worse than it did. I think you need a different shifter Mo. Thats twice now isnt it for 2nd gear oops.
Olerodder, Not sure about anyone else, but when i had pushrod length issues years ago i bought a length checker from Summit. It pretty much sets the geometry where it needs to be, it comes with a non-function roller tip rocker and three differnt style adjustible rods. With lifter on flat side of cam lobe ( lifter down ) -- install desired pushrod --- install non-function rocker --- and adjust pushrod until snug to rocker, then remove rocker and measure pushrod length. Hope that helps, i tried to look the one up i purchesd --- cant find it though, it was a Moroso length checker kit.
Igoback70, Thanks for the info. I have an old Isky setup that I've used for almost 30+ years and was just wondering what length pushrod FordMaster169 used. There are so many variables when seting valve train geometry, block deck height, head deck height, head stud boss height, rocker arm brand can also differ, cam base circle, and valve stem height.
Well has any1 heard what was causing the rocker arms to fall off the springs. just curious. will know if it happens to me or others
To tell you the truth I cannot remember the length of the push rods. I ordered all components (Cam, Lifters and push rods from Lunati). I gave them all the info on my engine to get the correct push rods. The only thing they were really worried about was what heads I was running and deck height. I told them they are Edelbrock Victor Jr. heads (210 intake runners with the exhaust raised .250) and that's all they really needed. After I got it assembled and the lash set I took a magnifying glass and had the wife turn the engine over very slowly and I watched the position of the roller on the valve stem. They were perfect, at .300 lift (about half way) the rollers sat dead center of the valve stem. There should be no lateral push on the valve stem causing them to wear prematurely. I have also used gear setup paint to do this. Just paint the top of the valve stem and set the lash on the rockers then run it through a couple revolutions. Take the rocker off the stud and check the pattern on the valve stem. Works well also. Valve train is pretty forgiving all in all. It makes a difference if you are way off on the push rod length. Mainly if you are hitting something like valve spring retainers due to short push rods. (Have seen that a few times on engines) Ok, I will stop rambling now.
darn it . . . I knew it was my fault I am embarrassed to say that I'm still driving around on 7 cylinders. Haven't had a chance to fix that lifter yet on the #5 cylinder.
so yesterday mo replaced the damaged lifter. it still didnt run well. the vac gauge need was bouncing allot so i did a leak down test on it this morning and found both the intake and exhaust valves were bent. i pulled the heads and took them to the machine shop. this is what they found
looks like it's gonna be expensive! Should I install studs for the intake this time since it looks like I'm gonna be taking the intake on and off a few times still?
Before bryant tore into the engine again I took the intake off and removed the bad lifter . . . If you look closely this is what you see in the above image: Here is another piece of the hydraulic lifter sitting there These are the pieces we retrieved together they formed this . . . problem was all the little metal pieces that chipped off the top of the lifter The tip of the rod got beat up too
Yes, it does look like it's going to be expensive. You don't have that many miles on the motor, do you? Are you going to drop the pan and check the main and rod bearings for signs of metal going through the motor? Studs for the intake sure make it nice if you have the gaskets cut to match the ports. I use studs on mine and it works great. IMHO
