I bet you floated the lifters. You also need to check the lobes on the cam to see if they got hammered. Going forward, "if you want it to live" I would be replacing the lifters to match the rest of your valve train and let it spin. Don't forget to recheck PTV
Depending on what AFR 185 head you have, the springs maybe just borderline for the staggered lift. Some AFR heads are advertised as 135# on the seat and 550 lift.As stated, ck out or better still throw new lifters in it and replace the springs with 650 springs which are 155# at the seat. this pressure wont hurt the cam or valves.jmo
Ed Curtis has a trick spring setup that will eliminate any valve float (up to a good bit of RPM). Tapered springs with little bitty titanium retainers. Good to contact him to ask. If nothing else, there's a possibility of adding a good bit of HP from 5500-up. I saw a dyno sheet once where someone had a 5.0L with hydraulic roller lifters and stock springs that came on the heads, then swapped the springs and picked up 85 HP at 6500. I do not know what the springs were. I ASSume they were tapered springs and ti retainers. Might be worthwhile to suggest having a REAL good look at things if the valves got bent at only 8000-ish. Either that or it was way over 8000ish. Something went haywire. Stretched rods or bolts maybe? It happens. What's the piston-to-valve clearance? How much were the lifters preloaded?
we did get stiffer springs installed. my engine builder didn't recommend different lifters but I will ask him again. right now I'm waiting on header bolts to arrive and I haven't even had a chance to work on the car and probably won't until next week. thankfully bryant's shop partner let me borrow their truck. but I REALLY miss driving the maverick.
after working on the engine again a little I'm motivated to finish the supercharger install. I'm actually pretty close. I have the a1000 fuel pump, bryant has the fuel regulator, I will order the fuel lines I need and then install the supercharger bracket and move the radiator forward a little and it should really be ready. Bryant and I will make our own carb hat.
To move the radiator fwd won't u have to modify the core support? Wud like to see how u do it. I wud'nt mine having a little more rm between my rad /efan and water pump pulley.
yea bryant and I came up with some places where we can modify the support without compromising the hood latch but we'll have to see
What I did to gain another 1.5" http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=5532 https://www.cvfracing.com/ford-pulleys-s/33.htm
bryant has been busy, I'm at work but he is making awesome progress . . . the new header bolts from ARP arrived, got them for $20 shipped.
