What, are they expensive now? I used to get them for like $5 and float them in the river. Even the big ones, like they use on the big diesel rigs. I can't see that they got too expensive. Either way, I think I only need one, the other wheel seems to have one already, and has held air for the past couple of years. YUP. Just polished off a box of wine last night... You know, I am not a wine connoisseur, can't tell an expensive wine from a cheap one, so I just buy the $13 boxes. There is like 5 bottles in a box, so it is like $2.50 a bottle. Halfway through the box, I am spilling half of it anyway
Scott, see this link for some M/T FAQS (covers reasons on when and when not to run tubes - as a guide anyway): http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/faqs.php The tubes are $55/ea at Scummit Racing: http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+4294916922+400206+115+4294780586 Running tubes or not really depends on each individual car's setup IMHO. You DO want a little rinkle in the tire like in the picture Mike showed. The tubed slicks will also wrinkle. Here's a shot of my launch at Windy Hollow: Judging by the foot print of the tire in this picture, it appears I had too little tire pressure (it looks like the center part of the tire wasn't gripping as much as the outter part). I chose to run tubes for a couple of reasons, 1) I was constantly having to air up the non-tubed tires (didn't know about the dish soap trick), 2) Consistancy at track, 3) Safety: Running a tube is simply safer than running without one - with a tube, there are two seal barriers, the tube and the tire. In the event of a blowout at 100mph+, that 1 second might be enough to help correct a potential disaster. Having said all that, (here comes the qualifier), a car will generally turn quicker e.t.'s withOUT said tubes ("unsprung weight" thing - read HERE. I believe it comes down to a matter of personal opinion based on individual variables. Oh, and dkstuck gave some good advice I'd fogot to mention when it comes to tire pressure. Have a buddy look at your tire's "foot-print" after you launch to see if you're getting too little or too much contact with the track. Also, (here we go again), personally, I'd leave the letters alone. Making them a crispy white just doesn't do it for me. I've got some old gangsta walls you can have if you want bling: Good thread.
The old drag racer I bought my M/T ET Drag slicks from told me to buy tubes at a tractor dealer. He said the tubes used in tractor tires were better than the ones made for slicks and a helluva lot less money.
Also, take the bag out of the box and blow it up, and you have a "Space Pillow" to lay your drunk head on. We used to do that in college... Lots of good info. Thanks guys. I think I will run the tubes, if not for the air leaking issue, as least for the safety issue, even if it slows down my 14 second 1/8 mile passes j/k, it isn't that slow. If I have to spend $60 buck for a tube, that will be the ONLY money spent on the entire project (and the $4 for the white paint pen...I really like to see the M/T going around, and will provide that joy for my spectators).
White is ON!!! Fresh new coat of white paint on only the M/T. Look just like new tires (if you stand down the street maybe 6 houses away )
If you run tubes, you will need wheel screws. (tire turns on rim, valve stem gets pulled out of tube) Want to ask how i know??? I know there will be some to argue, but just go ahead and try if you feel lucky. Personally i dont run tubes,( anymore) my tire will slip about a 1/2 inch on launch if i dont screw them down. I usually screw the wrinkle walls down and let the radials slip. Be careful going below 12 psi, it will walk around at the big end of the track.
I'm your Huckleberry. I suspect you're putting down a substantial amount of horsepower and/or leaving on a transbrake (or both)? I find it hard to believe - not impossible - that a 300rwhp running 15psi or over on tubed slicks, no transbrake, on a car as light as a Maverick, needs to have wheel screws. My
With my mild setup, I will skip the screws unless I see significant slippage, which I doubt I will. I will just set it up as M/T suggests, and see what happens, and make adjustments as I need to. So, what makes it "walk around" as a couple of you have said it may do?
Like i said, there will be some to argue, By the time you detect the slippage it may be to late. Walking around is the same feeling you felt on that flat tire you had on the family car, except you are going a lot faster. I may be paranoid but i have seen some bad wrecks that in my opinion could have been avoided. ( witnessed one yesterday, running to low air pressure and not letting off when the car got loose , Totaled a Mustang) But to each his own Being careful and paying attention to detail never hurt anyone.
