Bob, I finally have a couple of minutes to write a thoughtful answer In Germany, each car has to pass an inspection before being street legal. You won't be able to get a license plate without an inspection by the officials, the 'TUV'. In addition to the initial inspection, the car has to pass it again every two years. What is being checked in this inspection is not only the current technical state the car is in - to make sure no car endangers others - but also if everything on the car is still street legal. For every exhaust system, every rim, every engine modification there has to be a written proof that the part in question was tested and approved. The main problem is that every part also has to be tested in combination with the specific type of car. Thus, a wheel legal for a mustang isn't necessary legal for any other type of car or vice versa. Quite a lot of people with newer cars, the car tuning scene in general is fighting these problems. The only good thing is that everything coming from the car manufacturer itself is automatically considered legal. That's only spare parts, tough - not a complete rebuild like the one here. Vintage cars are a little easier, though. The tests are not as thorough, as nobody can actually prove what was on these cars 30 years ago. Thus, only a test whether everything is safe and 'contemporary' is performed. Major modifications like the one here would lead to questions, though. They would only be legal if you can actually prove that they are contemporary AND were carried out more than 30 years ago. Thus, only older hot rods would be legal. There are ways to get around all this - nobody will ask me about my t5 in the mustang, the rims i have on there were approved by a nice official i know personally, and the 8" rear from the mav will never be noticed. But it is not easy to handle. The main problems arising from any violation is not that the car is not legal any more and the fines you would have to pay. It's the loss of insurance coverage which makes it a tough thing. So if you are in an accident with a modified car, and you have caused it, your pockets better be deep... I hope that clears it up a little!
And i thought we had it bad in California ..... All we need are C.A.R.B. approved parts and a smog check. I'm glad we don't have inspections.
Between the .095 triangulated roll cage and the solid welded cross member and frame connectors, the things that are being put in this car have a whole lot more strength and integrity than the spot welded original tin that was removed from it. The hard part, i guess, would be getting it "tested and approved". If Germany is anything like the USA, just the pile of useless paperwork would make anyone run away and give up.
its the crumple zone factor. you dont have a crumple zone any more your car will transmit it engergy in a crash strieght into you and the object it hits.
Understand on the crumple zones I will be putting all new inner fender panels back in but just ones made out of aluminum. The front bumper will still be in the same location as it will still mount in the same threaded holes in the frame rails. Just going to make some nicer looking mount plates. There will be a new radiator wall also made out of aluminum. If you add the fenders, hood, grill, valance and filler panel back in that should give it a bit of crush area once again. It just looks so bare right now. Hopefully- - - - - - I won't be needing to test it.
The crush zone is built into the front and rear frame. The sheet metal that goes on the car has little to do with it. If your frame is rigid from the passenger compartment to the bumpers then you don't have a crush zone and the people inside the car get the full impact of any collision.
rules probably because of the Autobahn, I'm sure they don't want to see a Maverick passing a Lambo at 195 MPH ! lol
393 Cleveland Finally In The Chassis This past weekend I was finally able to get the 393 C installed in the chassis all in one piece coupled up with the bell housing and the toploader. It is close around the Mustang II crossmember with the cutout in the Canton oil pan but there is tons of room everywhere else. The whole assembly still has to go down in the front and up at the tail plus ahead about an inch. Once it is where it finally belongs, I will need to install some tubes from the cage hoop, down to the frame, weld on some mounts, trim the engine plate and bolt it all up. I bought a set of Hooker headers designed for a 71-73 Mustang and the driver's side actually slipped in from above and bolted right up. The passenger side header has a tube that is bent in a loop to clear the starter and might hit the firewall slightly but that can be fixed. You can do all of the measuring that you want and it's still a little spooky until you actually drop it all in.